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Car wheel vibrations

car wheel vibrations

Eddie the 2006 and 2007 and a few 2008 PT cruisers have faulty driver side axle shafts which cause vibrations. The regular axle shaft is not balanced and the turbo one is. They say to get a turbo one put one and that takes care of the issue. I have so much to look into. My mechanic is going to love me on Friday. :)

My question is, does the small amount of misfit(slightly larger ring hole size to hub size) present any troubles in the short run or especially down the line? Also, the spare tire is now worn down but the spare wheel is fine, so, can I get a new tire for the spare and would that be cheaper? Where to get such a tire and who to put it on? What to do with the spare wheel?

It sounds like the calipers are sticking for some reason, I recommend taking it on a road test to the point when you smell the pads heating up, jack the front wheels and see if the wheels spin freely, if both wheels don’t spin freely, you know you have a problem. Let me know if the calipers are sticking, then we can go from there. It could be as simple as bleeding your brake system or backing off your brake light switch :)

Visit HowStuffWorks to learn what it means if your car is vibrating. For front-
wheel drive cars, toasted CV joints mean you'll be buying new drive axles, toooo.

When tire tread is too low or unevenly distributed on a tire, it can cause a car to vibrate at high and low speedsds.

Yup, or you have a defective tire, I recommend returning to the garage and telling them your problem, and after they fix it, tell them you would like to verify it’s fixed by road testing it with the mechanic or service manager, that way your not stuck returning to them for a third time. Let me know what happens Melissa or if you have any other questions, I’ll be right here :)

I need your help. i recently got my powersterring pump changed,then i got the rack and pinon changed on saturday now the car is driving like crazy it shakes violently and its not driving properly. mind you the only problem i had was stiffining in the powersteering. i toook it to a mechanic today and they told me that the previous mechanic who installed the rack and pinon didnt install it currectly , and now my cv axle is broken. please help 120 dollar job is now turning into a 720 job to correct the mistake. oh by the way I changed my ball joints too. my car is a 96 mercury sable. please helppppppppppppppppp!!!!!!!!

Hello my friend, yes, sometimes it is very difficult to narrow down the problem. Having a Hunter Roadforce machine will help diagnosing tire and rim problems, it takes more time but you have more accurate results. If we have a difficult balance problem, we use the Roadforce machine. Thanks for the comment hardlymoving, nice to hear from you.

No you’re not crazy to think that, it’s very possible. I recommend calling and telling them your situation, they will probably tell you to come back to the shop so they can balance the tires again, but don’t leave the shop without road testing the car with the mechanic or the service manager, that way you won’t have to return for a third time.

As far as your balance on your wheels goes, wheels can be truly balanced using wheel weights on the inside, but the balance is only as good as the mechanic doing it. I have balance hundreds of wheels like this because the new car have no place to hammer on wheel weights on the outside of the rim. Go back to the place you had your wheels balanced and have them rechecked, it shouldn’t cost you anything because you just had it done.

Another common cause of steering wheel vibration or car shake is having something logged in a tire like a large bolt or any metal object picked up from the roads surface. I have seen tools like wrenches and screwdrivers that have impaled a tire; it’s not common, but it does happen. If you live in an area that has snow, plowing through a snow bank could cause snow and ice to become trapped in the rim or wheel and cause a serious steering wheel vibration, to fix this, just rinse out the snow and ice with a garden hose or pressure washer.

Thank you so much for all of the great advice. I think that my tires are out of balance but I wanted to ask you one more question before I took my car in to have to that done. I had front and rear brake pads put on my car about a month ago and now (since then) the steering wheel shakes when I am at relatively high speeds. I would say 50mph or higher. Do you still think that this is a tire balance issue? Any thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated, thanks again.

I believe your car is a 4wd, but is it 4wd all the time or only when you shift it into 4wd? the stop rolling when turning is sort of normal because the the drive-train is straining because all 4 wheels turn at the same rotation speed and when you make a tight turn the inner wheels turn faster than the outer wheels,so the car will stop rolling because of the stress, if that makes sense.

Vibrations are funny Dave, sometimes a vibration will subside with a speed difference of 2 mph. Say you were going 55mph and the wheel was shaking, then you brought it up to 57 or 53 mph and it goes away, I know it may sound crazy, but vibrations don’t come from one source, sometimes 2 or 3 sources, and once they are in sync with each other, the vibration gets worst. That’s why I recommend having the tires checked first, It’s the most common problem for shakes, if they’re ok, we will dig a bit deeper. Where do you feel the shake? Is it in the steering wheel or the body of the car? Do your brakes shake or pulsate when coming to a stop from high speeds? Let me know.

Take the car for a test drive. When the vibration occurs, is it while you're
accelerating through a bend? That means it's both torque and speed sensitiveve.

Hello ayo, Your not bothering me in the least, I was being as truthful as possible. I don’t know what kind of car it is, but if it’s a front wheel drive car, an inner CV joint will cause a vibration on deceleration, this is very common on front wheel drive cars. On a rear wheel drive car, the drive shaft universal joint or center carrier bearing could cause a vibration on deceleration. Check those parts and let me know what you find. Thank you for your comments ayo :)

Does your car shake at speed? How to tell if your car’s vibration is coming from
bent wheels or tireses.

The noise you heard could have been anything from a rock kicking up from a tire, or a loose wheel weight falling off, or it could have been a tool the mechanic left in the engine compartment, what ever it was, it’s gone now and you have a vibration. I don’t think it was a bolt, nut, or anything major like the transmission failing, but it’s hard to say without looking at it.

I was wondering if you could help me out, I had a small leak and it turned out to be the seal from the CV Axle/Axle Shaft was leaking transmission oil cause it’s an automatic honda S04, the mechanic also said that it shakes now because the ball joints and tir rod ends are finished and need to be replaced, could it be the CV Axle/Axle Shaft that was placed wrong causing this shake or is the mechanic right for thinkinng it’s the ball joints because the car would not shake at all like that before and after he worked on it, it started shaking but I just didnt have enough money to replace everything on the same day. thanks

The moral of the story is that you should put loose suspension parts and alignment at the very bottom of the list of things to check when dealing with a highway-speed vibration. They are very rarely, if ever, the cause of such things. Just to be thorough, I’m going to post a video here on how to inspect your suspension.

Hi, here with an update. Turns out I need a stabilizer pin for the rear driver side strut. After that’s done we can see if there’s anything else that could be contributing to the shake. The parts only and I know a mechanic so I’m saving a lot of money there. Thanks for your help and if I find anything else out I’ll be sure to come back with another update.

As far as the rotors, when you say that it’s common for Honda rotors to rub, does that mean you think it’s a possibility that that’s what is causing the vibrations and that resurfacing them could cure the problem? I just want to be sure I was understanding you correctly. I appreciate all of your help with this.

One thing you might want to try is, drive along the side of a building like in an alley or behind a strip mall where it’s quiet, open the passengers window an really give a good listen to where the noise is coming from, maybe you can have someone drive for you, this will give you more information on the sound so it will help the mechanic find it faster. (saving you money)

Hello. I owned a camry 2011, and I feel my steering wheel vibrating on Highway around 60 to 75 mph; also, it alway pulls my car toward to the left. Noted that, I brought my to have tire balance on two front one, but the steering is still vibrating not to violent. I asked the technician that if my rims are bent, he said they are still good. I also have my wheel aligment in march this year. Infact, I had the cheap tires on my front one, and also heard noise like whitsle sound. Can you help me to explain the problems? Thanks you

The vibration is pretty fierce, but it’s only in the steering wheel; I can’t feel it
anywhere else in the car, like I could if I were going over a bumpy .

I never mentioned the vibration to the tire shop. My tires were wore out and it didn’t even cross my mind that new tires wouldn’t fix it. The rims are original equipment (aluminum, 16″ rims, no hub caps). Can drive components cause vibration like this? I don’t notice much difference when accelerating or decelerating.

@ Natalie, It sounds like you have a few different issues here, I recommend you check out my video on how to diagnose a wheel bearing @ http://eddiecarrara. hubpages. com/hub/What-is-a-whe. let me know if this is the noise your hearing. The vibration and pull might be related, first I would check your tire pressures to make sure you don’t have a tire low on air, if the tire pressures are OK, you should bring it to a reputable mechanic and have it checked, you may need an alignment and a tire balance.

Hi Eddie – I have a 2006 Honda CRV. About 2 months ago, I took my car in for service — to have my tires rotated. After this service, I noticed that my steering wheel would shake really bad when I drove above 50 mph on the highway. Also, there was a very loud grinding noise that I had not heard before. I took the car back to the Honda service center and they said the technician couldn’t find anything wrong; but suggested that it “might” be a wheel bearing problem. They also said that it would cost over 0 to fix it; but they can’t promise me that replacing the wheel bearing would solve the problem. I told them that I would be in touch and I left. I don’t want to spend over 0 on a hunch! I did notice that the steering wheel was no longer shaking like it had been before. What do you think about all this? I’m at a loss and I’m really disappointed and frustrated. I purchased my car from this Honda dealer 5 years ago; and I have rarely missed a service appointment in those 5 years. Now, I’m feeling very distrustful of this company — seeing that I didn’t have the problem before I took my car in to have the tires rotated; but now I have a problem that will cost 0 plus to fix. NOTE: The Honder service technician agrees that my tires are fine.

With universal wheels like yours, it’s very difficult to eliminate the vibration. You would have better results if you installed hub rings rather than spacers, but you may not completely eliminate the vibration. That is the down side of universal wheels. Let me know if the hub rings help when you get a chance, thanks Perry.

HELP I AM A WOMEN THAT JUST GOT NEW TIRES AND A ALIGNED ON MY HYUNDAI ASCENT 4 DAY 2002. I GAVE THIS CAR TO MY SON WITH M. S. ON MY WAY TAKING THE CAR BACK TO MY SONS THE STEERING WHEEL SHANKS BACK AND FORTH REALLY FAST WITH SOME VIBRATION AND THE CAR SEEM TO BOUNCE UP AND DOWNWARD MAKING IT HARD TO STAY OF THE ENTER STATE. IT SEEMS TO DRIVE OK BUT STILL BOUNCY SOME WHEN DRIVING SLOW ,BUT AFTER YOU GET UP 65 OR FASTER THIS GET WORSE. MAY I ASK ANYONE MIGHT KNOW IF IT IS THE TIRES NEEDED BALANCED ? I HAVE NOT HIT ANYTHING AND TIRES NEW ALIGNED TWO DAYS AGO ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS TIN

Hey Mona, if all those components are ok and adjusted properly, I recommend replacing the proportioning valve. I have another reader who is having a very similar problem and I believe it’s the proportioning valve causing it, I believe the proportioning valve is sticking internally and not allowing the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder, so replace it and let me know if that fixes it, thanks Mona.

We have 2 new front tires put on the car and all is good now. Shows how important good tires can be. Now to convince my brother to never by used tires and waste money. It cost 0. 00 total and well worth it with weather in this area and it seems that the van isn’t guzzling as much gas. Lesson hopefully learned (oh and the light no longer is on). Thank you so much for your help.

I feel your pain, vibrations can drive you crazy. It’s possible you may have a rim that is damaged. The first thing I would do is bring it back to the last shop, and tell them your not satisfied with the way the car has a vibration and see if they can fix it, ask them to check the rims for damage as well. If they can’t fix it, you will need to find a tire specialist who has a Hunter RoadForce machine, this type of tire balancer can check your rims and tires for problems other balances can’t find, like heavy or hard spots in the tires, you may have got a defective tire from the factory, it happens a lot. Let me know what you decide to do, and if you get it resolved, could you come back here and give me an update? Thanks Tanya, take care for now :)

Hi Edie this is Lou again with 2004 nissan murano. I finally took it to my trusted mechanic and they inspected the vehicle and found nothing wrong with steering or suspension everything looks tight. The problem is with the wheels. They can’t pin point if it’s the tires or the rims but they think it’s little bit of both. There is no visible damage to the rims but i know i hit some potholes past 8 years owning the car. Chicago winters can be brutal. They balanced the wheels best they could with 2 or more oz’s on each wheel and one of them which is in the rear now took 4 oz weights. They say it’s a lot. The car drives better but still there is a little wobble at higher speeds. The car has 80k miles and I’m considering getting the new rims when the tires are due. Thank you again for your help.

I just bought a 2009 Honda Civic. It has a rebuilt status and all seems good except that when I am driving at high speed, over 80 km/hr, the car will uncontrollably sway from side to side even with the smallest jerk or sway of the steering wheel. On the highway, or at high velocity, I have to take the curves nice and easy and well calculated otherwise the swaying is over exaggerated. I don’t feel safe and it feels like the car can easily flip or I can loose control. Any suggestions? I feel the last owner was not honest with me. Unfortunately, I did not take the car out into the highway prior to me buying it.

Hello Alaskan Subaru, no worries, everything takes time. That is awesome, glad you got rid of the shakes, sometimes going cheep doesn’t pay off. FYI, you’re not clueless, we all have our strengths and weaknesses :) Take care, and if you ever need some advice, you know where to find me, and don’t forget, if you have friends or relatives that have automotive questions, share this on Facebook or just tell them where to fine me :) Thanks, I really appreciate it.

Hey jrrich, 8 time out of 10 it’s a tire balance issue, if you think the tires may have been rotated at the time of your brake job that could be the cause as well, or maybe over torqued wheels. I would just start with a tire balance first before chasing a problem that might not exist. You may want to bring it back to where you had the brake job done. If they created the problem and they are honest, chances are you might be able to have it fixed for nothing. Hope this helps, let me know what happens either way, I would really appreciate it, Thanks.

The vibration may be a bad tire, but there is only one machine on the market that can tell you that, and that is a Hunter RoadForce machine, and not many shops have that tool. Without the tool, it’s a matter of swapping wheels with another car to try to figure it out. I know that’s not what you want to hear but that has been my experience. Let me know if I can help in any other way, and if you have time, could you come back and give me an update, thanks Cali, take care for now :)

My car jiggles violently on the passenger side whenever I hit the slightest bump. I have had my tires rotated and I was told that I would need to replace the back passenger tire soon, but could it just doesn’t seem that that is the root of the problem! It jiggles horribly and I don’t know what’s up! What do you think?

My guess would be that it is your tires causing the vibration and the pulling, the only way to be sure is to rotate the front tires to the rear and the rear tires the front, then drive it to see if anything has changed. That would be the staring point, if the car rides better, you know it’s the tires causing the problems. At this point, you can ether get new tires or keep them where they are. If nothing changes after rotating the tires, we will need to dig a little deeper. Let me know what happens Danysng, thanks.

One in seven cars suffer from geometry issues. These can have been in the car from new and it is interesting to note that many car manufacturers actually machine the rotors on the car to align them to the car. Subsequent replacement with a new set of brake discs or brake rotors will result in steering wheel vibration unless the rotors are re-aligned on what is called an “on car brake lathe”. These re align your rotors and the vibration will be gone.

I have 2006 Ford Escape. Has vibration from 25 MPH and up. Feels like back corner of vehicle, but I’m not sure. Had an alignment done, and I put 4 new tires on it. I thought tires were causing the vibration because they were getting down on tread. I was wrong. The vibration has not changed despite the alignment and new tires. What should I check next?

If the vibrations subsided after the wheels were balanced, most likely the wheel weights fell off and the vibrations is back. I would take it back to the garage and tell them exactly what you told me, hopefully they step to the plate and check their workmanship for free. Let me know what happens Helen, thanks.

I just had a alignment done to my car and I’m putting two new tires on it today. But when I was at the mechanic shop, the mechanic told me that I needed new “tire Rods”, and that my steering wheel will continue to shake if I don’t get that fixed is this true? I haven’t driven it over 50 mph yet. because im still at work. Can you help?

I drive a 2006 Camry. I noticed a slight pull when driving it. I had an alignment,tire rotation and balancing done. I know the alignment is perfect because it goes straight now with no pulling. However I feel a vibration all the time at all speeds. In reverse(my drive is hilly) it feels like the car is rolling over rocks. There is a low hum sound I hear as well at speeds of 45 miles an hour. Sometimes I feel a bouncy sensation. When I go over a gentle bump my car doesn’t feel like it lands on all four wheels going straight. I am like clockwork with oil changes and generally get the tires balanced and rotated then. I skipped the last one because I had to take the car back 2-3 times to get rid of movement I felt when driving and I was hesitant to go through that again but I also realize I need to rotate,balance them to get even wear and my moneys worth. My Michelin tires are 80,000 mile tires and almost a year old. I have 72,000 miles on the car. I get free tire rotation and balancing. Any advice would be great! Thanks

EBC Brakes are the leading online brake company offering brakes, pads, discs, rotors for automotive, motorcycle, mountain bike & racing – Steering wheel vibratioion

In response to Wilma’s comment about her 2012 Nissan Versa I too have a 2012 Nissan Versa and I have the exact same problem. It is pulling at high speeds on the highway and I have to fight to keep it centered. It also shakes or shutters when I ease off the gas pedal. I have taken it in four times to Nissan and they have done nothing to correct this. Any suggestions? I’m extremely frustrated. It’s brand new.

@ Gautam, shake and vibration are the same, it all depends how people describe their problem. Your problem sounds like a tire issue, maybe an out of round tire/bald tire or a bent/warped rim. I recommend having it checked as soon as possible just to be safe. Let me know if I can help in any other way Gautam :)

You can still get the alignment, but I know it’s the cause of your vibration. That type of vibration is usually caused by a inner cv joint, drive shaft center carrier bearing, or u-joints, it all depends on what kind of car you drive. Are you driving an early Honda CRV? Because that vibration is normal in the CRV, lol. Let me know what kind of car it is, maybe I can help, take care for now :)

Hello Needhelp, There are several possibilities I can think of off the top of my head. First a question, does the vehicle have the same vibration when applying the brakes at these speeds. I have seen brake calipers stick for one reason or another, and cause a similar vibration. If you have a similar vibration when applying the brakes, the problem may be a sticking brake caliper.

Hello Maddambutterfly, Did you offer to take the mechanic for a ride to prove to them there is something wrong? If you went through all that trouble, I say you got a new defective tire, the next step is to fine a garage with a Hunter RoadForce machine like Cali did, she didn’t fix the problem completely, but she knows what’s causing it. I hope you can figure it out soon. Keep me posted if you decide to pursue it any further, take care for now Maddambutterfly.

Thanks for the quick reply. The repairman did tell me that it was likely the problem. He did mention that it was hard to take it all out completely and that the liquid in the tires would eventually dry out. He said the chemicals are like glue. He also did a tire rotation and put that tire into the rear to see if the shaking would be better on the steering wheel. I just bought it to the dealership today to have it checked out. For .

The noise your hearing might be a wheel bearing, watch my video on How to diagnose a wheel bearing and let me know if that’s the noise, there should be a link to it right before the comment box on this page. The bouncy sensation might be nothing, I think you’re tuning into your cars every movement and noise because of the wheel bearing. Let me know what you think Shelley.

Take the car for a test drive. When the vibration occurs, is it while you’re
accelerating through a bend? That means it’s both torque and speed sensitiveve.

First, If you had worn tie rods, they should have been noticed and changed when the steering rack was replaced, you have to do an alignment on a vehicle after a steering rack is replaced, plus you need to remove the tie rods from the old rack and install them on the new rack, unless you replace them with new ones, why wasn’t this caught before the rack was replaced?.

THANKS EDDIE FOR ANSWERING MY POST. i WENT BACK RO THE MECHANIC HE CLAIMED THERE’S NO WAY HE INSTALLED THE RACK AND PINON WRONG, BECAUSE THEIR IS ONLY “TWO HOLES”T O PUT IT IN. HE CLAIMED THAT ITS MY TIRE RODS/AND TWO FRONT TIRES NEED TO BE CHANGED HE CLAIMS THATS WHATS CAUSING THE SHAKING AND RUMBLING/AND VIBRATION OF MY CAR. BUT THE OTHER MECHANIC THAT CHANGED THE BALL JOINTS YESTERDAY THINK ITS THE CV AXLE JOINTS. AND HE CLAIMS HE CANT ALIGN THE CAR UNTIL I CHANGE THE CV AXLE WHICH IS GOING TO COST ABOUT 350 DOLLARS. OH DIDI I MENTION MY HORN DONT WORK AND MY AIRBAG LIGHT IS ON. I’M LOST ALL IWANTED WAS MY RACK AND PINON CHANGED. NOW THE CAT TREMBLES TERRIBLY(COULD BE TIRES/AND TIRE RODS) I HAVE A LOT OF PLAY IN STEERING WHEEL. AND NOW MY HORN STOPPED WORKING,, AND AIRBAG LIGHTS ON. I DIDNT DRIVE THE CAR TODAY BECAUSE ITS TO UNSTABLE. I WANT TO HAVE ANOTHER MECHANIC LOOK AT IT BUT GIVE ME YOUR EXPERT ADVICE , BECAUSE NOW I TRUST NO ONE.

Hi Vic, if the tire pressure light is on, you have low pressure in one of your tires, your spare tire may also have a sensor so don’t forget to check the pressure in the spare tire. Check the manual on how to reset the light because every manufacturer is different. Let me know if this helps Vic, thanks.

Had 4 new tires put on 2009 honda. Within 1 week two drivers side were loosing air. I returned to shop. They said sensor was causing it. I looked at original invoice for tires and sensor was replaced then as well at no charge so they must have broke it then too. They replaced it again on monday april 9. I noticed the front driver tire loosing air again and planned on bringing it back in saturday the 14. Unfortunatly my son flipped the car and totaled it before then. He said he felt steering wheel shaking violently and could not control car. Could this have been due to tire?

If your steering wheel vibrates or your car shakes while driving at highway speed,
I will explain why. You will be surprised to find out what doesn't cause these .

The vibration you have while braking is caused by the rotors or drums (not sure what’s on the back), the rotors can be resurfaced it there is enough materiel, it will have to be measured by the mechanic. If there is not enough material, you will have to replace them or live with the brake pulsation temporarily while you save some money, it’s not dangerous, just annoying.

Process of elimination! I guess it could have been the wheel bearing, I just have never hear one squeal before, but that doesn’t mean it can happen. The car had to be rolling in order for it to make noise, so it’s unlikely it was the ball joint, ball joints tend to make noise when the ride height changes like when you hit a dip or a speed bump. I’m just glad the noise is gone, and thanks for your feedback, it really is priceless for other readers and myself. If you ever need any automotive advice, you know where to find me :)

Hey Mike, thanks for all the great feedback, and thanks for such a great description of the problem. It sounds like you have a small rock caught between the break disc and it’s backing plate. Sometimes when you drive over a freshly filled pothole or paved road, you can hear all the little rocks bouncing up because they are sticking to your tires and are being flung in every direction, if one of these get trapped in the space between the rotor and backing plate, it will create all kinds of weird noises that turn heads,lol. I would start by checking out the small space between the rotor and backing plate, you might even want to remove the rotor just incase it’s trapped behind the rotor. Let me know what you find Mike, and if you don’t find anything, we can dig a little deeper, thanks.

I have seen rotors cause this before, but it’s very unlikely unless the caliper piston is sticking or the caliper slide pins are frozen. In my opinion, it sounds like you have a tire with an issue. I know you bought new tires, but some tires have defects, heavy spots, hard rubber spots, belts that are seperated, you get the idea. If the tire store you use has a Hunter Road Force tire balancer, it wound help to determine which tire has the problem, if not, it will take process of elimination to figure it out. If you could find a shop with a Road Force machine and a good mechanic, I think your problem would be solved. Let me know if I can answer any other questions Rob, or when you figure it out, thanks.

When they call you and tell you the car is ready, take your son and go pick it up. I highly recommend road testing it with the mechanic before you leave the garage. Unfortunately that is not how life should go Tin, it people like that who give mechanics a bad name, there are a lot of good mechanics out there, you just need to find them and stick to them like glue.

Glad you found your way back with great news! Sometimes on re manufactured axles the axle diameter are slightly smaller where the seal sits and that can become a huge problem, a mechanic can change and axle seal 3 time before replacing the axle again (go for the cheapest part first). As far as your vibration goes, those older cars ride quality is a lot different then a new car, keep that in mind. Take car for now and let me know how the balance job comes out :)

i have a mazda 626 and the alignment is good and the tires seem good it drives fine until you get to 65 then it gets a rough vibration especially when i let off the accelerator at those speeds and also when i take a turn at a good speed it feels like it doesnt want to stick to the road it feels kinda loose any ideas?

If your car is shaking, whether it's the steering wheel or something deeper, this
checklist can help you figure out what's causing it and how serious a problem it is
.

Is the vibration in the steering wheel or does it feel like it’s coming from the motor or transmission? Does it happen when your driving at a steady speed, on acceleration, or deceleration? The possibilities are endless for this kind of vibration, so the more information you can give me, the better. Does your car have a cylinder management system, does it shut down cylinders while on the highway to conserve fuel? Do you have the i-VTEC V6 with Variable Cylinder Management? Let me know as much info as possible, and I do my best to figure this out :)

Hi shaker, It sounds like a wobble in one of your tires, this usually occurs when there is a broken belt inside the tire, if you have a bent rim or if your tires are bald with steel belts showing through the rubber like in the picture in the article. I would look at your tires and rims closely for these problems, you’ll never know what you’ll find. Let me know how you make out :)

Trying to figure out which tire is the problem is going to be the challenge, look for a shop in your area that has a RoadForce tire balance machine, it will identify the cause of your vibration by measuring hard spots and detecting broken belts in each tire. Let me know if you have more questions Peter, I’ll be right hear waiting :)

Eddie thanks for your help! You’ve clearly explained that the transmission is NOT my problem, saved me 00 bucks Eddie plus my time being without a car waiting for the rebuild. Two reasons for knowing this. #1. Never on Civic. #2. There is no hint of any carrier bearing noise at all. It runs totally quiet and proper. I’ll keep you posted on the new left seal if it leaks. The mechanic probably saw some type of axle damage or manufacturer issue and was just preping me for the coming back in part for the 0. 00 new axle job, in advance. He stated some of these axle are machined smaller than what the seal is, and thus they will leak and need replaced. Also, thanks for clarifying that inside weights can actually be used to truly balance a tire but only as good as the mechanic doing the balancing job. Read your 66 Mercury poem and it was totally cool. I highly recommend readers to go above this post and find and click on the 66 Mercury link above this comment. Also saw the card in spokes video. Brought back memories of some 33 years ago. Thanks again for giving me the inside scoop on my baby, the savings, the memories, and your help is truly pricesless! ==Thanks Eddie * 91Honda-slave-civic-DX-5spManual *

Eddie, I called the detail shop that did my brakes and they told me they only have a balance machine that goes up to 18″ and that he thought it was a balance issue to but that I had to take it to another shop. So, too bad I couldn’t get it taken care of there but sounds like a quick tire balance will fix my problem. Thanks again for all of your help and advice, I will let you know after I get the tire balance done and the issue is resolved.

I found this really useful. Just recently I had this problem of vibrating steering wheel. It is awful when a problem develops when you are far away from help and you have no idea what to do. I am grateful for these tips and I think it was great of you to share this information. Voted up and Tweeted!

today I took my car back to the mechanic and there were weights on the front before but they were on the inside of the rim not on the out side so they rebalaced the front with new weights and kept the old weights on the back. And now there is no vibration. Thanks so much for your help and if I have anymore problems in the future I will contact you. Thanks again. Karen

Third: Your horn and air bag light are on because the mechanic who installed your steering rack did not install the steering column shaft correctly and broke the cable reel in the steering wheel. The cable reel is the component in the steering wheel that communicates to the SRS control unit. If the steering column shaft is installed improperly after replacing a steering rack, you will break the cable reel and the horn and SRS(air bag) light will come on and your horn wont work. You need to talk to the service manager on that issue. I suggest you print this out and read it to the service manager or owner, the mechanic screwed up big time, and needs to own up to it.

I usually rotate tires when there is 2/32 difference in tread depth. The rule was (best tires in front) but now the tire manufactures have done extensive testing on traction control with all kinds of weather conditions, now the rule is (best tires in the rear) this is so the rear tires don’t loose traction and swing the ass end of the car around.

It sounds like you have a bad tire, have you looked at your tires at all. This type of vibration is common when there are belts coming through the rubber at a bald spot, or it’s possible you have a bent rim. I would look at both the tire and rim and see if there is a physical damage or wear, if everything looks OK, have your front tires balanced.

Hi maisiedog , you’re safe to wait for the shop to take a look at it, it sounds like you must of damage the wheel bearing same time. The rotors will have to be resurfaced for the brake pulsation but I don’t think that has anything to do with hitting the rock. Let me know what happens when you find out whats wrong.

When you bring it back, talk to the service manager, and if the tires are just out of balance, tell the service manager you’re not gong to pay for it again because it should have been done right the first time, now your wasting your time bringing it back. Don’t be and jerk about it but be assertive, you payed for a job and it’s not right.

Thanks for the input testosteroneguide , your right , the most common reason for a shake of vibration is an unbalanced wheel, and you would most definitely need a wheel balance machine to remedy the issue, but alignment would not cause a shake of vibration, it may cause the tires to wear uneven and cause flat spots or a chop pattern in the tread, but alignment itself will not cause a shake or vibration.

Hey Eddie. Just wondering if you can help me out before I spend any money I don’t need to. AWD 02 impreza WRX. Car shakes around 70mph, especially while letting off gas to coast – and at all speeds, the car slows quicker than it should while coasting. Once I’ve stopped driving, the front two wheels are very hot to touch, much much hotter than the rears. They also slightly smell of burnt rubber. What could it be? I doubt both my front calipers froze at the same time.

Hi, Eddie. Update on my post 2 months ago. My shaky steering wheel is still there. I have tried the hub rings, different lug nuts, new axles, stock wheels, rebalanced and rotated my aftermarket wheels. There are no play in my wheel when the wheels off the ground and when I’m underneath the car, there are no loose parts. The wobble is only on accelerations from 0 to 70mph.

Hi Eddie, today I replaced the wheel bearing and lower balljoint (even though I replaced the balljoint only a couple of months ago). The backing plate (splash shield?) I removed a while back, so I knew the sound could not be from a stone stuck between the rotor and the backing plate. I have had this happen before, but the sound this time was much, much louder. Problem solved! I do not think that it was the balljoint, as stated before, I got the noise when the wheel was already turned. When I replaced the wheel bearing and balljoint, I had the knuckle/hub off the car, so I had to remove the brake caliper and rotor. So maybe I did something when I put it back together, but I am concluding that the problem was from the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing was the original part with 560,000 km (350,000 miles) on it. Thanks for taking the time to help me out with this most annoying of problems. If the problem reoccurs again, I will change the brake pads. At this point I will have exhausted all options! Mike T.

Are you sure the vibration is while your driving at a steady speed and not when your braking while coming off the highway? That kind of vibration is caused by warped front rotors. Something is causing the vibration, it just a matter of finding a mechanic who is will to take the time to figure it out. Let me know how you make out or if you have any other questions Ravi, take care.

Usually alignment causes the tires to squeal around corners, did they do an alignment? I would bring it to a reputable garage and get a second opinion, if the new mechanic fixes the problems, bring the bill back to the first guy and work out some kind of deal where you’re both satisfied with the outcome.

The vibration could be from budget tires, I’m not sure that you damaged the rim when you had the flat tire, but if you did, the mechanic should have picked up on it. I recommend bringing it back to the shop that mounted and balanced the tires an let them know your not satisfied because you have an annoying vibration, you don’t want to drive the car for years with this vibration, so have it fixed now, and don’t wait too long. If you have any other questions, just let me know, and if you have a minute after you get it fixed, could you come back and let me know what happens, I would really appreciate it, thanks Daz :)

Thanks once eddie. It was a typo error. Am actually drivin a toyota mark ll – 2004. I will try to replace back the original 16inch tyres and see if there is any diffrence. if it doesnt work then i will check the cv joints. I will let u know of the progress. By the way how can i identify a worn out cv joint?

Great articles. I am having a problem with a severe metal screeching sound when I turn in reverse. Either direction. I am not turning the wheel when this happens. It is a 96 Honda Civic. I have changed the upper and lower balljoints, and removed the splash shield. But the balljoints are not moving when this happens, as I am keeping the steering wheel steady. The wheel has no play in any direction when the car is jacked up. The noise is on the passenger side only. I checked the brake pads and bent back the wear indicator. Still no change. My neighbour said it could be a bad wheel bearing, but it does not have the classic groaning sound, and again, no play. The sound is so loud that people turn and look when I am backing up! Look forward to your advice and keep up the good work that you do. Mike T.

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The only reason I mentioned to put the tires back to their original positions is because you said the vibration wasn’t there before the tires were rotated. If the vibration goes away after returning the tires to their original position, you will know there is a problem in the rear tires. (it’s just process of elimination)

Hi, I tried reading through all of these comments to find and answer to my question but there’s just so much! It is very kind of you to take your time to be so helpful to so many proletarian. Ok, well I bought a 2002 Ford focus just yesterday and it was both shaking and vibrating in the front end. 3 of the tires were so half that the rites were sticking out so I figured that was the problem so I got 3 new tires. The shaking stopped but its still vibrating pretty badly, mostly on the drives side and can be felt on the steering wheel and gas pedal the strongest. Even when I’m at a complete stop its vibrating and doesn’t really get better until I’m going over 70 mph. Is it likely that the wheels just need to be balanced or could it be something more serious? My husband doesn’t think its the wheels because it vibrates at a complete stop.

I got handed down an 02 Audi awd from family who did not care for it at all. The issue I am having with it is that the car shakes and vibrates while driving at any speed but worse on badly paved roads. I can also feel every imperfection in the road throughout the car. I had the car lifted and found no play in the wheels, I replaced the tires and had them balanced and rotated a few times to no avail. I have a feeling it might be the original wheels or shocks but not entirely sure. Any insight is appreciated.

The number one reason your tires shake or your steering wheel vibrates is simple, your tires are out of balance. Tires take a beating, hitting potholes, bridge expansion joints, and curbs are just a few examples of tire abuse. Hitting any one of these objects could knock off a wheel weight, dent a rim, or cause a bubble in the sidewall of the tire, causing it to be out of balance. If you lose a wheel weight, it’s an easy fix; you just need to have your tire balance and the local garage. Denting a rim or causing damage to a tire could end up costing you more money than a simple tire balance.

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I recommend getting a third opinion, shocks will not cause a vibration, shock absorbers do just that, they absorb shock and stop your car from bouncing. My best description is if you compare a spring mattress to a foam mattress, the spring mattress bounces continuously when it is jumped on(Bad Shock absorber) A foam mattress will bounce once when you jump on it (Good shock absorber).

The only reason I say to balance them when rotating them is so you don’t run into a tire vibration after you rotate them, it save you a trip back to the shop. If your car doesn’t shake at all before you rotate, you can just rotate without a balance, but the rear tires have a funny way of hiding vibrations.

The reason I say you could try resurfacing the rotors is so you could scratch that off the list of possible causes. Unfortunately your mechanic is using the process of elimination technique to diagnose the vibration, that’s why I suggested finding a shop that used the Hunter Road Force machine, it could save you time and money searching for the cause of the vibration.

For the tire vibration, I recommend bring it back to the shop that balanced the tires, and have them balanced again, it shouldn’t cost you anything because they just balanced them, and they should have road tested it before giving the vehicle back to you, if they had road test the vehicle after the job, they would have noticed both vibrations and save you a trip back to the garage.

Good point Eddie but id like to disagree on that, I was a firm believer of the same principle that steering alignment wouldnt cause vibration, but when it gets bad enough it seems that it does, especially when turning. But that’s just an opinion of my own, and the alignment really needs to be serioud to notice.

I am hoping you may be able to steer me in the right direction with a vibration issue I am having with my car. I have a 2005 ford xr6 ba mkii. It has 17″ rims and sometimes when driving (doesn’t do it all the time) the steering wheel gets a vibration and starts to shake. This is usually around the 80-100km speed. When it does happen if I apply the brakes it vibrates harder. I have found that I can stop it by giving the brake pedal a very quick punch. If it starts to vibrate and I punch the brakes quickly it goes away and that is usually it. Last week I drove 3ookm it done it once and the quick touch of the brakes fixed it and that was the end of it.

Hello John, I wouldn’t go buy 2 new rims yet, if the vibration is in the rear and mid way through the car, it’s possible you have a worn u-joint or you may have a carrier bearing that is worn. I just Googled “center carrier bearing for a 2008 Expedition” in images, and it does have one, so I would check those two things first and then we can explore the issue further if you don’t find any problems. Let me know what you find. I think the carrier bearing is the culprit :)

It’s also possible you have dirt and grass stuck in the bead between the rim and tire, and you just knocked out your alignment. You really need to have some one look at it and put it on an alignment rack. Worst case, you bent some suspension parts like: steering rack, tie rods, control arm or anything else pertaining to the suspension, and also bent a rim and ruined a tire or two.

If you have never had a problem before replacing all 4 tires, I would guess that you have a defective tire. Just because the tires are new, doesn’t mean they can’t have defects, it’s a very common problem, especially on low grade tires or discount tires bought from warehouse stores like BJ’s and Sams Club. It’s even possible to get defective high performance tires, there is always room for error.

Vibrations in the steering column can happen for a number of reasons, such as a busted motor mount, bent rims, bad CV joints or loose lug nuts [source: Distad]. But none of these automotive problems would cause a steering wheel to shake only when the brakes are applied. That’s almost always due to a problem with the rotors.

So, suspecting something fishy, I took the Subaru back to the rental place and told the mechanic the problem. He took the vehicle and balanced it. After the job was done, he said that he had done everything he could. He had balanced the tires (and mentioned that the the left back tire needed 3 ounces) and had also done some inflation.

Hi Eddie thanks for your rapid response to my question. I have been back to the tyre shop today and the guys there where only to happy to help. They checked the rims and tyres which were fine and rebalanced the wheels again which were fine. They agree with you that the small vibration could be down to the fact that I opted for the budget tyres on the front which are Riken Maystorm2 b2 tyres. To be fair to them they did recommend that I fitted a more expensive quality tyre made by a quality brand when I opted for the cheap option. I asked the guy to come on a quick road test with me and he felt that the small vibration in the footwell and the road noise we could hear was due to the budget tyres on the front. I have a pair of Dunlop sp sport 9000 on the back that will need replacing in a couple of months. I have decided to leave the budget tyres on the front until the back tyres need replacing. If the front tyres are still causing a vibration then I will change all 4 tyres for good quality expensive tyres. I thought I was saving money by fitting the budget tyres but this was clearly a false economy! You shouldn’t fit budget tyres to a £30k car! I have learned my lesson and will only fit good quality tyres from now on! I will come back to you in a couple of months when I’m due the back tyres and will let u know how I got on. Thanks for your help and have a great weekend. Daz

The only way to truly test a catalytic converter is to measure the exhaust temperature going into the cat and coming out of the cat. Every catalytic converter is different but they all work the same, the exhaust temperature going into the cat will usually be around 300 deg at idle, the exhaust temperature coming out of the cat should be around 100 deg more, so 400 deg in this scenario. The way to test the exhaust temps, is to use a laser pointed thermometer gun, just aim it at the front of the cat and then at the rear, the difference should be around 100 deg.

If you want to dig a little deeper, pull off the wheels and rotors again and check the contact points I mentions for rust, if all is well, the vibration could be caused by the tires themselves, not all tires are perfect and some have defects straight from the manufacturer. Let me know what you decide to do Taylor, and when you fin the problem, come back here ad let me know what you found, thanks.

Butler Tire offers hi-speed on the car wheel balancing for most cars, trucks and SUV’s. We eliminate most vibrations by balancing the complete tire and wheel assembly.

If you liked the tires that were on your car, be very direct with the manager and tell him, thank you for the recommendation, but I want the Duelers. If you want Duelers, get Duelers. We had those on the CRV and they were a great tire, don’t let the manager talk you out of them, you will be much happier in a year from now.

2. It’s possible your brake light switch at the brake pedal is out of adjustment. If the brake light switch is out of adjustment, it causes light pressure on the brakes, as the brake fluid heats up, the brake fluid expands and causes even more pressure on the brakes, and again, causes them to over heat and warp and abnormally wear.

What I would do is jack up the rear axles off the ground and place the vehicle on jack stands to be safe, then run the wheels slowly, around 5mph to verify there is no bent rim or out of round tire. If the vehicle wobbles that bad, you should see something that doesn’t look right when you do this procedure. Let me know what you find Wendy, thanks.

I am having a pretty bad shimmy in my front end on my 1995 BMW E36. It’s not the balance of the tires. Tread wear is normal and all boots around the rack and pinion look to be good(no cracks or leaks). This vibration started around 120 KPH and is now doing it as low as 60 KPH(seems to be getting worse,fast). I do have an audible clunk in the front end when hitting a bump, could this be Ball joints in the lower control arm ? Just wanted to see what you think before I order them.

I think you were very lucky. Most mechanics use an air powered gun to install lug nuts, these guns can torque lug nuts to over 250 ft lbs, that is extremely tight, tight enough where it’s almost impossible to loosen them with a tire iron. You are very lucky to have caught it when you did. I recommend bringing it back to the mechanic and having the lung nuts, wheel studs, and anything else that got damaged,replaced, even if the wheel studs look OK, have them replaced because they have been stressed big time! All I can say is it was pure luck the wheel didn’t fall off. If I can answer any other questions Lee, I’ll be right here.

My brakes are operating properly. I did the brake job, and verified the calipers are working very smoothly. I greased all places that need it with the proper grease, and also applied brake quiet to the backs of the pads. How frequent would more than one wheel be bad, since they were rotated twice? I would be surprised if three wheels are bad. The vibration is still there in the front driver’s side. It seems to be worse upon accelerating, and has had me thinking it’s a drive shaft/cv joint, but the boots are good. I did hear a crunch when dry steering in a parking spot once, but not the typical clicking a cv joint would make when turning. Is it possible the vibration is coming from the transmission or axle? I will be at the dealership first thing in the morning, so we’ll see what they say this time.

I own a 2008 Honda Odyssey, and I’ve been having a difficult time diagnosing a rolling (non-braking) highway vibration between 60mph and 80mph. I can feel the vibration both in the steering wheel and in my seat. My tires are new from early this year and I’ve had the wheels balanced several times recently in an attempt to fix this problem. I trust the tire shop that does the balancing. I’ve used them for various problems for years. After some time of trying to diagnose the source of the vibration, one of the techs had me listen to him spin the rotor with the wheel off. There was a slight rubbing/brushing noise that occured on only one of the rear rotors. He suggested that replacing the rotor might (he emphasized might) cure the problem. Have you ever heard of a problem brake rotor causing a non-braking vibration?

If they find a bad tire or bent rim, ask why they didn’t catch that the first time and ask how they are going to take care of you because now the’re wasting your time. Don’t be intimidated by these guys, if they want to keep you as a customer they will work with you, and remember Laci, the squeaky wheel gets the oil :) Let me know what happens, I really appreciate it, take care.

If you just had your tires replaced and you still have a tire balance problem, you may have a bent rim or the person who balanced them did not do a good job. You have two options, check the rims for dents on the inside and outside of the rim, or bring it back to the mechanic who did the job and tell them your not satisfied with their work.

My first question is, Why do you still have a vibration after having a bad tire replaced and the wheels balanced? Did the mechanic even test drive the car before giving it back to you? I would definitely make a issue with the service manager about your vibration issue, and no, an alignment will not make a vibration go away.

Hi Karen, you are very smart for coming back and asking more question :) Before you buy anything, call around town to some tire stores and ask if they have a Road Force tire machine, this machine will tell you if there is a problem with your tires or rims. This is the next best step if you can find a local garage that has this machine.

Hello there. Awesome hub! I used to think that the car wasn’t needing an alignment or that the wheel bearing was going or the lower balljoint. I always had my mechanic husband repair my cars, but he never offered any information that I could learn from. I never really knew what was wrong with my cars. I only knew how much I had to fork out for parts.

I took the wheel to Tires Plus and he took a crescent wrench and bent the dent out and there was not much left and he said it would not cause any trouble based upon his experiences. The wheel is off a Mitsubishi Lancer and has a bore(center) hole of 56. 1mm and my Daewoo Lanos needs a 57. 1mm. At the tire shop, they trimmed the hole a bit with a grinder and it slipped on, but then it would hit the brake because of the way the wheel was shaped. I then purchased from the internet a 14 x 6, 4 x 100mm, 72mm bore hole wheel and a wheel spacer(ring) that was for a bore size of 72. 62mm and my hub size is (of course) 57. 1mm. The shop slipped the ring onto my hub (before snapping it into the wheel center hole) and there was a little room to wiggle the ring(“play”)(maybe due to the 0. 62mm difference?). The wheel and tire are on now.

Hi Paige, thank you for you kind comment :) It sounds like you have a bad tire or a bent rim. You could try balancing the tires to see if that helps but a good tire technician should be able to tell you if the tires is bad. The best machine to balance a tire is a road force machine, most tire store have these type of machines.

We did flush out the old steering fluid few days ago bec it was so dirty and thick also it smells pretty bad. After all taken care of and it was still a problem. So Thank you for the information about the power steering rack valve which I’m going to talk to the ford dealership about it. I hope it is a problem. Again Thank you and have a great weekend.

Hey Eddie, I’m back. Just wanted to update my stats. So what I did was put new tires in, but cheap ones. each. Did the alignment and balance. Now I don’t have the heavy vibration anymore. The mechanic did say that my shocks were weak and should probably have that changed. It’s a 2002 Mercury Sable and 55,000 miles. I didn’t think it was necessary, so I passed on that. Sometimes when I drive I feel like I am getting a small vibration in the car but I might just be paranoid. I think some parts of the highway is bumpy, that’s all. Just paying way too much attention now. Do you think it could be the shocks as well?. Anyways, thanks a lot Eddie. This is the best page and support coming from you. Much appreciated.

If it didn’t shake before the axle seal was replaced, then it was something he did. A worn ball joint or tie rod end wouldn’t cause a vibration, unless it was completely junk. Sometime wheel weights fall off wheel when the wheel are removed and sometimes wheels are over torqued causing warped rotors and stretched wheel studs, resulting in a vibration. I recommend having your tires balanced or get a second opinion, what ever you decide, let me know what happens, or if you have any other questions, I’ll be right here :)

The heavy lug nut would not cause a axle seal to leak, I am 100% sure of that. The first axle seal may have been installed wrong and that’s what caused it to leak. If the transmission is the problem, the carrier bearings would be the culprit. I have seen carrier bearings with too much clearance, and wear out axle seals on some Accords, never on a civic, plus the carrier bearings make a wheel bearing noise while driving (see my article on what is a wheel bearing and watch the video). An axle would cause a seal to leak, but you would notice the damage on the axle when you had it out.

If you have aluminum rims, the tire was probably loosing air because the mechanic failed to remove the corrosion at the bead. Moisture and debris get caught between the tire and rim and cause corrosion, if the mechanic did not sand the corrosion off the rim, it will usually cause a slow leak. It hard to say if that is the case here but it is very common. Let me know if you have any other questions or if I can help in any other way. Take care for now Kathie.

Shortly thereafter, I noticed two things, 1) It wobbles at speeds over 50 mph & 2) Which I just noticed today, when I slow down pressing my brakes it makes like almost a humming noise but except it goes “hum.. silent. hum. silent. hum. ” So anyways, I already took my car in earlier about the wobble and they said it was a loose wheel weight but it still is not fixed, now I have this brake thing. Any ideas?

Karen again. I did just last week get all new brakes and my tires rotated. After tires are rotated shouldn’t the tires be balanced too? I know they did not balance them becouse my husband said that the mechanic did not. so do you think that could really be the problem my steering wheel did not vibrate before the tires were rotated.

I am going to be taking it in Tuesday to have the tires balanced and rotated I really hope that works! The only problem I keep running into is the language barrier because I am stationed in Germany and we have one American mechanic who aligned the tires and now says there is nothing wrong but it’s obvious there is something wrong because the steering wheel still shakes (50-75MPH) and it still glides to the left, so I’m done taking it to them but we do have Germany Honda mechanics but like I said the language barrier is hard to get past.

Very Good ayo, yes, Mercedes do have dampeners in the drive shafts to absorb vibration. I haven’t worked on a Mercedes since 1993 so I’m not to familiar with the brand and how they do things now. I hope that works out for you, please let me know when you get the results if the vibration is gone. Thanks, I really appreciate your input, take care.

Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it, replacing the wheels and tires will certainly change he ride quality. If you plan on keeping the car for a while, I recommend installing a good set of tires, like the Michelin LTX, it has a 70k warranty and ride awesome, I just dropped k on 4 of them, but well worth it.

Your car shakes while driving down the highway, the steering wheel vibration is driving you crazy, and without even realizing it, it's causing you to feel tireded.

If your tires are worn to the point where the steel belts are visible on the tread surface, I highly recommend changing them immediately, this is definitely the cause of you steering wheel vibration or your car shaking. If you continue driving on bald tires, you’re risking your life and flirting with disaster, having a tire blow out at highway speeds is extremely dangerous, especially if it’s a front tire. Do a quick check to see if its bald tires causing your steering wheel shake, you need to physically look at each tire. Turning the steering wheel to one side will give you a better view of your front tires tread surface. You will need to get on your hands and knees to check your rear tires closely.

Vibration on steering wheel when going over 60mph? You may need a wheel balance, or have the universals checked or there is the posibility that onone

i have a 2005 f150 and i have a shake in the rear, feels like the driver side wheel, i’ve had the tires balanced, changed, rotated, and re balanced again, i’ve changed the rear shocks. i’ve noticed that the brake pads on this side are worn more that the passenger side. could this be a warped rotor causing this vibration. it vibrates the worst around 48 to 52 mph, thanks

Hi Eddie this site is great please can you help me? I have a BMW 3 series and I had a puncture on the freeway while travelling at speed on my front left tyre. I stopped as soon as I could and changed to the space saver spare wheel. The next day I went to a tyre shop and had two new front tyres fitted and balanced. Ever since this happened I am getting a strange vibration at all speeds in the drivers footwell. I don’t get any steering wheel vibration. I have had the wheels rebalanced but i still get the same vibration. Could this be a damaged rim? could this be something to do with the fact that I only fitted budget tyres? Or do you think I have damaged something on the front of the car? Please help! Daz

I bought a wheel from a junkyard and the tire will be mounted on it tomorrow. When I got home, I noticed a small dent on the wheel on the edge of the side that would be more inner(near brake; as opposed to outer side of car). Will the tire mount properly? Will it cause any later trouble like air leaking or steering issues, etc. “down the line”? Will the shop refuse to put the tire onto a wheel that is dented even though the damage is minor? How should I proceed? Should I tell the tire shop? Will the junkyard give me another of the same wheel–that has been very difficult to match for my 2001 Daewoo Lanos?

I firstly had the tires balanced. Then I had a complete set on new tires put on the car. It was ok for a little while but is now playing up. The mechanic thought it was a buckled rim. So the spare tire has been put on (it’s a 15inch rim not 17 inch like the others and replaced the back left) however I am still having the problem so I am now not sure if the diff ent size rim could cause a vibration or if this rules out the rim.

Hi Paige, That sounds odd that all your tires are bad, you just had 1 of them replace which leaves at least 1 good tire. If I were you I would get a second opinion if possible, I realize your in a foreign country but it’s worth a shot. If you don’t want to get a second opinion, here is what you should do to save a few bucks. Have the bent rim replaced, and replace the 2 worst tires, then put the 2 new tires on the front with the new rim, then put the best of the 2 old tires on the rear of the vehicle. That should cure at least 90% of your problem and save you a few bucks.

The engine stalling is not normal, either your idle is too low or the power steering pump is putting to much strain on the engine and causing it to stall. If you bought it from a dealer, bring it back and have them check it, if you bought it private sale, you have to have it checked by your mechanic.

I drive a 2000 Subaru Outback that seems to have a predisposition to “the shakes”. It was bought in the fall of 2011. The Outback was on summer tires (look pretty worn), but was driving fine, with just a slight pull to the right. I had it inspected by a trustworthy shop (FATS Auto) and they recommended doing an alignment.

I think what your feeling is the strut or shock absorber is blow (the seal has failed) Once a strut/shock looses all it’s oil, it will no longer stop the wheel from bouncing when hitting bumps. I recommend going out to the vehicle an taking a look at the shock/strut at that wheel, if it’s oil soaked or covered in dirt, you’ll know it’s blown. Don’t forget to come back here with some feedback on what you find, I’m very curious, if that’s not it, let me know as well, thanks Dee.

Sometimes it take persistence to get answers, and it looks like you have done it. Don’t forget to thank them for all their help because they have really stepped up to the plate, if they swapped out your tires from there loaner car, they are going the extra mile. So be very thankful for all their help, because you don’t always find this kind of service. Let me know the final results, and thank you for getting back to me with the update, very cool :)

It seem like there is a problem with the brakes constantly being applied. The problem your’re having is very difficult to diagnose without seeing the car. If I were to guess, I would have to say it has to do with either the master cylinder push rod out of adjustment, the brake light switch out of adjustment, or the rod going from the brake booster to the brake pedal is out of adjustment. I would have all those components checked, and the vibration is caused by warped rotors, once the rotors over heat from being applied constantly, they warp and then cause a brake pulsation, so it’s a matter of figuring out what is causing the brakes to be on all the time. Hope this helps Mona, and if you figure it out, could you come back here and let me know what it was, I would really appreciate it, thanks.

If the tire shop showed you the wobbling axles while the car was on a lift and the wheels spinning, it could have been an optical illusion, the suspension is hanging, so what your seeing is not how it really is when all 4 wheels are on the ground, your axles are being stretched and you could be fooled by what you see, what you’re seeing is not accurate. I’m not say the axles are not the cause, but it’s very rare an axle will cause a vibration, even an outer axle that is noisy.

The wobble sounds like a bald tire or a bent rim, the only way to know for sure is to look at your front tires and rims. Turn the steering wheel to one side and take a look at the tread, make sure there are no bald spots, also look at the inside of the rim for dents, its possible to damage the inside of the rim and not the outside, so take a close look. Let me know what you find Joey, take care for now.

A common mistake of a mechanic is over torquing the lug nuts. Some mechanics will use a air gun to re-install the wheels, this causes uneven pressure on the lug nuts and actually warp the wheel causing a vibration. This can be avoided by using a torque stick on the air gun or using a torque wrench to tighten the wheels.

I have a 2005 Lexus ES330 and my tires are fairly new (was told the tread is at an 8, I drive about about 8,000 miles/year, mostly city), and recently I had a blowout. The mechanic could not find any reason as to why the blowout occurred. Since my tires were newer I only purchased one new tire. Since then, my car shakes upon acceleration and braking, and I have had the tire balanced at 2 different auto shops, as to which both informed me that my rim was not bent. In addition, since this has occurred, all 4 tires keep losing air. Would you suggest that I have all 4 tires balanced and rotated to see if that would fix the problem?

Mr. Eddie yes sir it’s rolls smooth but when you get up to 50 mph it’s starts shaking a bit but when you go to slow down it really stars shaking the steering wheel and it feels like the front end starts shaking and yes sir it to dealer ship for the repairs and ask them to check the breaks and get it in line and they said they did but I am wondering if they did but we also have taken it in for new tires but before you get to 5000 miles they all start shaking.

Loose suspension parts are another frequent suspect. People sometimes ask me if they have a loose ball joint or some other component causing the vibration they’re feeling. The answer is always, “Loose suspension parts can aggravate a vibration, but they are not the cause of the vibration. ” Remember, vibrations are caused by rotating assembles, not necessarily loose parts. In fact, when a wheel is up to speed it acts like a gyroscope. This means that even with loose suspension parts, at speed, you may not notice the loose parts at all. Vibrations can actually create loose parts, sure, but that misses the point. Vibrations are almost always the result of something spinning that’s out of balance. This imbalance is what causes the vibration. I’ve seen vehicles with very loose suspension parts drive smooth as glass down the road. I’ve also seen one wheel weight come off a wheel and it felt like the front end was about to fall apart.

The audible clunk could be something as simple as a sway bar bushing or sway bar link, I recommend checking them as well. Can you reproduce the clunk by bouncing the car in the driveway? If you can, have someone bounce the car while you look to see what’s making the noise. Let me know what you find or if you have any more info or questions, I’ll be right here.

I would start by checking the tire pressures, if they are very low, it will make the vehicle feel very unstable. If the pressures are OK, check all you tires for good tread depth. If all the tires look good, take it in to have an alignment check. Check these three things and get back to be with what you find, OK? thanks Sam.

I took the car for a test drive on the interstate going about 70-80 mph. The vibrations that were their have decreased quite a bit. I still noticed a bit of vibration that I don’t think was their before. I was trying to figure if that’s just road vibration or if it’s something else. I dunno what else to try. The balancing helped out greatly, but it seems like their is something that may still be causing the steering wheel to vibrate a little.

The difference between awd and 4wd is the manual engagement of 4wd. On an awd vehicle, I have never seen the ECM control the awd, but I haven’t worked on every car either :) so I dono. On Hondas, they use a viscous coupling located on the driveshaft, to control the awd, it’s similar to a Detroit locker differential, once the front wheels start spinning faster then the rear wheels, the friction discs in the viscous coupling lock together and engage all wheels together.

YES I AM BECAUSE THE GUY DID TEST DRIVE THE CAR , HE ALSO KNEW I WAS GOING OUT OF TOWN TO TAKE THE CAR BACK TO MY SON WITH M. S. AND HE HAD TO DRIVE IT EVERY DAY ON THE INTERSTATE. HE ALSO KNEW ITS JUST ME AND MY SON. GEES THIS KIND OF STUFF HAPPENS TO ME ALL THE TIME. MY SON KNOWS NOTHING ABOUT A CAR. BUT WITH NEW TIRES AND ALIGNMENT BELTS OIL CHANGE AND SO ON. AND THE MONEY. I THOUGHT IT WAS SAFE TO DRIVE, NOT KNOWING IT WOULD BE WORSE. NOW I GOT TO TAKE A TWO HOUR DRIVE BACK TO GET THE CAR MAKE AND APPOINTMENT AGAIN. THERE GOES TWO DAYS OFF WORK LONG DRIVE AND GAS MONEY. LOL GUESS THAT’S HOW LIFE IS. THANKS FOR YOUR INFO

Having and alignment done on your car will not stop a steering wheel vibration or car shake. Alignments only realign the tires so they are all pointing in the proper direction while driving down the road. Having an alignment at least once a year is good preventative maintenance for your vehicle, if you live in an area with poor road conditions like potholes and large cracks in the road surface or you drive extensively on dirt roads, I highly recommend an alignment once a year.

It’s a common misconception that a wheel misalignment or loose suspension parts can cause a vibration. This is false. Your vehicle’s alignment is the angle at which the wheels hit the road. It’s not really possible for these angles to cause a vibration. If the alignment is way out, your tires will wear badly. This tire wear can get bad enough to make a vibration begin to develop, but understand that it’s the tire that’s causing the vibration at that point, not the alignment.

Why did you replace your shocks? For a vibration? and why are you replacing your throw out bearing? That is a costly job around 0, it sounds like your dumping an awful lot of money into this car, is it all necessary? Maybe you should get a second opinion, I know it’s a pain to get a second opinion but it could save you thousands.

Yes sometimes tires develop flat spots when sitting to long in one spot but driving it should soften the tires a little. But if changing the tires at the shop didn’t fix it, why are do they say to change the tires. I would bring it to a shop that has a Hunter Road Force tire balancer, that machine will figure out the problem if it’s in the rims or tires.

I need to ask you for a favor, if you found this information useful, please vote the article up, if you know someone who would benefit from this information, share it on Facebook or Twitter, it’s easy, and I would really appreciate it. Just push the “Like” button or “Tweet” button at the top of the page. Thank you for all your help :)

As far as the pulling to the right, does it happen on both lanes of the highway? The highway will usually be crowned to divert rain water to each side of the road, so sometimes vehicle tires will follow the crown, if you’re in the left lane, the car will drift left, if you’re in the right lane, the car will drift right.

The brake noise is probably a course cut on the rotors, sometimes new rotors will make noise until the pads smooth out the rotors, but ask the mechanic about the noise while you have him/her in the vehicle on your road test. The last thing the mechanic wants to do is road test the vehicle with you, so you’re almost guaranteed to get it fixed so the don’t have to road test with you again, lol.

Hello Salim, If your car is shaking when applying your brakes it is likely that your front brake rotors (disc)are out of true (warped)and either need to be resurfaced or replaced. The mechanic working on your car will need to measure the thickness of the brake rotors first to verify that there is enough material to resurface, if your rotors are to thin, you will have to replace them, at this point, I would also replace your brake pads. Let me know what you find out, Thanks :)

Hi! I need help. A couple weeks ago we had to replace one of the tires on my car (the front driver) because it kept going flat. Then a few days later the passenger front had to be plugged because of a nail. Since then the steering wheel vibrates when I get to about 60, and gets worse as the faster I go. So naturally, I’m thinking alignment because it needed one last year so I had that done at a different place closer tohome. Still vibrated (I see why now). So I took them to another tire place and had the front two tires balanced. Still vibrates. We were told it could be a bubble in the tire we had put on, so we took it back to them. The guy that helped us said that the tire I just got balanced was like 25% off. But he replaced the tire just in case the one they’d put on was causing the problem. And its StILL vibrating. What in the world??? Could it be the tire I had plugged?? This is really frustrating, and I don’t have money to be throwing around unnecessarily. Thanks!!

Have you ever been cruising down the road with your car running smoothly, only to find that your steering wheel suddenly starts trembling like a hairless dog on a cold day the moment you hit the brakes? Your immediate thought might be that you’ve driven onto a quake-prone fault line. That’s one possibility, but it’s more likely that there’s something wrong with your car. Now the question becomes, “What causes a steering wheel to shake when braking?” There are several possible answers — some more likely than others.

I have purchase replica rims recently. They are all perfectly balanced but still vibrate the steering wheel on the highway. I was told briefly that I need to buy custom caps that go on the inside center cap area of the rim specific to my make and model. I was wondering if this is true,and what they are called.

i had my front tires balanced and my steering wheel is still vibrating it happens between 50-60 mph they said my tires were fine no broken belts still plenty of tread is it possible it could be wheel bearings or could they be wrong about my tires? I would hate to go by new tires if I don’t really need to. Thanks again for your time. Karen

Have a subaru Impreza sportwagon. used to run wheel at high speeds without any steering vibrations. Replaced all four tires , wheel aligned and balanced and unfortunately i do get a bad wobble at low speed under 40km/h as well as disturbing steering viibrations above 110Km/h. I have checked driving shaft, tire surfaces, tie on ends and i just dont seem to find the reason! any assistance as all my mechanics seems to have given up

Your article was very informative. My car vibrates at any speed over 45mph. Also if I press on the brakes hard the whole steering wheel vibrates. I just took my car to get an oil change and they told me I need new tires that my tires have less that 2/32nd of a inch left on the tread. would this be the problem or would it be rotors as well?

I have a 2004 Nissan Murano I have a problem when i drive in highway my car is shaking i did tyre blance then still same after that i change new good year eagle tyre, but still shanking when i bring to gerage they are saying do tyre blance or change tyre i did both now i cant figure out what can i do, if you can write for me please.

Rotating and balancing the tires would not have helped you in this situation, this is clearly an alignment problem, it sounds like your rear camber alignment is out and is causing the inside of your tires to wear prematurely. I would recommend having a 4wheel alignment done, just as long as your rear alignment is adjustable, some vehicles with a solid rear axle don’t have adjustable rear suspension. Let me know what you find out with the alignment, I’m curious to know how bad it is out, thanks Debbie :)

Cars are supposed to run smooth & stable on a flat road, at any speed. It's only when they DON'T drive smoothly, that the owner starts worryingng.

I have a question for you. I have a 2008 ford mustang v6. My wheel was vibrating like something terible so i went and got all four tires balance. It really calm down but at 65 mph there is still a slight vibration. The weights are on the outside for the two back tires and on the inside for the two front. Should I have the inner and outters done for the ones that dont have it or have all them switch to the outside. I cant remember but i thought when i first got my car all the weights were on the outside.

I bought 4 new tires and have had them balanced 2 times. I checked for loose components in the wheel and found none. They are mounted on a mondera milano 17′rim. I still get vibration at 60 in up and gets worser at increased speeds. The shop suggest I get wheel spacers because of the wheel being universal. Do you suggest I get wheel spacers or hub rings?

I purchased some Raybestos Professional Series Rotors and Brake Pads thru Rockauto. com. Went ahead and changed the rotors and brakes on each side. Jacking one side of the car up at a time and taking it one wheel at a time. I had my father-in-law their with me helping/watching me changing the brakes (He is well inclined mechanically).

I’m doing very well, thanks for asking :) Seems to me you have been having some issues with the drive-train. Have you ever had the drive shaft balanced and u-joints checked? It sounds like the drive shaft has a vibration that is causing the output shaft seal to leak or possibly a bad u-joint, I’m not so sure it’s the tires causing the vibration, how is the vibration on deceleration from high speeds? My 66 Mercury had a bad vibration between 60- 80mph, but at 110mph it was fine, but the vibration got much worst slowing down from 110mph. I would have your drive shaft balanced at a speed shop, at the same time they will check the u-joints and then see what happens. Let me know what you decide to do, and if you do balance the drive shaft, let me know how you make out, I’m very curious, thanks Jacob.

My problem is that when am slowing down to stop, there is a grinding sound on the right front wheel. Its worse when I am negotiating a corner to the RIGHT ONLY. Would you know what the problem is? I have tried chaning the brake pads and even skimming of the brake disks but the noise just wont go. If it helps, I once had an accident with the impact being on the right front side.

Take the car for a test drive. When the vibration occurs, is it while you're
accelerating through a bend? That means it's both torque and speed .

1. It sounds like a sway bar bushing creak, sometime you can just lube the bushing to see if the noise goes away, but you have to remove it from the sway bar and lube where the bushing wraps around the sway bar. Usually there is a u shaped clamp with two bolts mounting it to the frame or similar body part. If that’s the noise, replace the bushings, their cheap enough.

Does your car shake at speed? How to tell if your car's vibration is coming from
bent wheels or tireses.

Visit HowStuffWorks to learn why your steering wheel shakes when braking.
Before you hit the road with your quivering car, be sure to ask a mechanic you .

Hi, Eddie. I did notice the vibration after I put the new wheels on but I didn’t think it’ll be a wheel issue because I got new tires and balanced them at America’s tire company. I don’t have the hub centric rings you’re talking about but I will try that. I think the rings might be it. I’ll let you know in a couple of weeks on the status. Thanks.

Take the car for a test drive. When the vibration occurs, is it while you’re
accelerating through a bend? That means it’s both torque and speed .

They checked the balance on my wheels and said all were out a bit. Then they did some work on the sway bar linkage (it was rattling/squawking a bit when you drove through pot holes at low speed). At the end of the day, I spent 0 and I still have the vibration starting at 25 MPH. The work they did was going to be needed eventually, I’m just a bit frustrated I have to take my vehicle back yet again. I feel it more in the steering wheel now. Obviously they didn’t take it for a test drive or they would have known it wasn’t fixed. The vibration is bad enough you can hear paneling in the vehicle shaking slightly. Vibration drops off once I get much over 25 MPH, but it never goes away. Stay posted.

If you happen to put 4 new tires on it and you plan on keeping the truck for a long time, I highly recommend putting some good tires on it, I just put 4 Michelin LTX on my 4×4 and I love them, the reviews were outstanding and they’re a 70k mile tire, but I also dumped k into them, in my opinion it was well worth the money.

I just bought a 2007 Chevy Equinox 2wd and every so often while driving on the highway at around 50-70mph the car will vibrate/make a noise coming from the driver front side. When I pull over to the emergency lane and come to a complete stop and then drive off again the vibration/noise goes away. When I mention this to the shops near by they look at me like im crazy and the problem is that it doesn’t happen that often to where they can take it out for a test drive and have it happen to them so I was told to wait for it to get worse??? Doesn’t that just sound wrong? I checked my lug nuts and bolts and I also checked my tires balancing and eveything came out good – so now im clueless – HELP PLEASE!

The vibration is pretty fierce, but it's only in the steering wheel; I can't feel it
anywhere else in the car, like I could if I were going over a bumpy .

Hi, I’m at my wits end. 04 xterra bouncy (yes even for an xterra) ride I could feel in steering wheel but only at higher (50-60mph)speeds. Wheels were balanced, bad tire replaced, new shocks. Now a shimmy in steering and if I let go it drifts to the right but doesn’t pull when I brake. Only 72000 truly mostly highway miles. Gonna have alignment checked tomorrow. My real question is shouldn’t bad cv joints or tie rods have been noticed when shocks were going on? Also scheduled to have throw out bearing replaced. Planning another raod trip soon but I’m leary now. Any help would be a blessing.

I would check the belt tension and the fluid level, sometimes when the fluid level is at max at idle, if you turn the wheel to the lock position, the fluid level drops causing a whine noise, adding a little extra ps fluid will stop this from happening. Let me know if this help Bill, and if you have more questions, I’ll be right here.

I like to be proactive and at least give the customer the option, specially if they plan on taking a long trip with the car, most service advisers don’t even want to give the customer the option because they’re scared the customer will think they’re getting ripped off. I say place the cards on the table and if they don’t want the service,don’t buy it, but at least give them the option.

Wondered if you can help me. I have a brand new 2012 Nissan Versa that at high speeds pulls to the right, and feels as though it is rocking back and forth. High speed being 60 to 75 mph. I took it back to the dealer with the complaint of the car bouncing at high speeds and they balanced all the tires. This seems to quiet the bouncing down. Then it started up again. I took it back to the dealer and they told me this is how the car rides. Then this weekend I had a chance to take it out on the highway and drove about 400 miles when I discovered the back and forth movement and pulling to the right. All this amounted to an exhausting ride of fighting to keep the car in the lane. Now I am afraid I have a safety issue because someone pulled in front of me and I had to swerve suddenly and the car started the side to side rocking (violentlay) almost causing me to lose control of the vehicle. Any thoughts on what could be going on with this vehicle?

I would recommend bring it back to the shop that just did the work, it possible they may have left something loose. After having all that work done, the car should drive smooth and straight. I think a lot of mechanics are in a hurry and don’t bother to road test the vehicles after doing the repair, that’s my favorite part the job,lol.

Hi Eddie, I recently got a 2003 Audi A6, the car was shaking on the highway and pulling lightly to the right, I had balancing and alignment done, and it seems it got worse; also the guys at the shop changed the front tires to ones they had to see if it worked and it didn’t. They said the wheels are bad and maybe the tires because the car sat on the dealer lot for about 5 months and maybe that damaged the tires.

Cali, you are the reason I do this, I know it’s very hard to find trustful information online or in the real world. You’re the first person to take my advice about the Hunter RoadForce machine and I’m glad you did, it is an incredible machine which fixes these types of problems, or at least figures out what’s causing the vibrations.

The truth is an alignment has nothing to do with your car shaking or your steering wheel vibrating. If you tell your mechanic you need and alignment, and they don’t ask the question “why” find a new mechanic. A good mechanic will always ask why you need work done on your car, they do this to extract more information from you as a customer, so they can make an educated decision whether or not you really need the work done or not. Fixing the problem on the first visit to the garage is a top mechanics goal.

I recommend going back to the shop that just mounted and balanced your tires, it’s possible they didn’t balanced them correctly or you have a bad tire. They should not charge you anything to re balance the tires or at least look into what is causing it. They should have road tested it before they gave it back to you, so it’s their problem. I would start there and if you have time, could you let me know what happens. Thanks Mike, take care.

Hi Eddie, how’s it goin. Hope you can help me. Had a local garage replace our 1998 honda crv’s auto transmission last week with a second hand one. Everything was fine till yesterday. While driving, I heard a like a bolt or nut (something metal)fell off then car steering wheel starts vibrating at 60kph. Brought it back to the garage, explained to the mechanic what happened. Later on the day, the mechanic told me that they’ve balanced the wheels and rotated the cv joint. Drove home but found out that the vibration is still there. I’m thinking maybe the transmission just died or center bearing issues perhaps. Any ideas? Thanks -Tom

Hi Single Mom, If you just got 4 new tires, you most likely have either a bad tire or a bent rim. I recommend bringing it back to the shop that mounted and balanced your tires and tell them your situation, they shouldn’t charge you to look at it because they just did your tires and should have road tested it before giving back to you.

I recently got a flat front right tyre but was able to get it fixed (mended) in a tyre shop, then I had to replace my back left tyre because it was completely worn down. Since then there is a very bad shake out of my steering, its very bad at speeds up to 40 MPH but not too bad at 70MPH. There is a small dent on the inner side of the back left rim, could this be the problem or is it something worse? Your help would be greatly appreciated

Hunter Engineering Company presents Why Does My Car Shake? Wheel rotation and wheel balance must be performed at regular intervals to prevent your car from.

Hi Okotoks, this is great information, for some reason I was thinking you had a front wheel drive escort, lol. Yes if the carrier bearing is worn and a u-joint is no good, that would cause a bad vibration, mostly in the seats, not in the steering. Putting the info for the garage in the comment is awesome, it’s always good to know where to find a garage with fair prices and honest knowledgeable mechanics. Thank you for all your feedback Okotoks, I really appreciate it :)

@ Reingolda, The down fall is the tires that are over inflated will wear in the center quickly, it’s best to keep them at the psi recommended for that tire, tire manufactures spend a lot of money on research and development, so keeping the psi to manufactures specs makes the most sense. Hope this answers your question Reingolda.

Having your tires balanced should cost around – a tire. Sometimes tire stores will offer you lifetime tire balancing and rotation, I highly recommend using this service to its fullest potential, it will save you money, extend the life of your tires, and will provide a relaxing driving experience. Driving your car with tires that are out of balance could cause more damage to tires by creating flat spots, rippling, cupping, and chopping. To learn more about tires, read my article, Should I buy discount tires or spend the money?

Hi eddie, your article looks interesting. I recently bought a second hand. ark ll – 2004. Whenever i drive at 110km/hr, the streeriNg and the peddle vibrates teribly. These gets worse when when i go down the hill and apply slight break. i have aligned and balanced the wheels but no change. I was wondering its because of the axles or its because of the 18inch low profile tyres that i had fixed. Front tyres are 225/40/18 while rear ones are 235/40/18. Please let me if you got any possible polution. Cheers

Hey Eddie how’s it going? Jive got a problem as well with my 90 ford mustang GT. I’m thinking about replacing the tires because they are over due but I’m not sure what would cause this shaking other than that. When it first started it was because I blew the seal out of the back of the transmission where the yoke goes. Got it replaced about 4 times, got a transmission rebuild. After the transmission rebuild I took it up to highway speeds around 70mph and broke the bell housing into 3 peices. Got that replaced and it is STILL shaking at 70 and above. But at 100 it stops shaking. It is very confusing and frustrating.

I cover much of this in the Idle Problems article. I’ll do a brief summary here. If you have a vibration at idle, focus on engine performance first. There might be a cylinder that isn’t putting out an equal amount of power, causing the engine to not run smoothly, or a mixture problem, or some other mechanical cause.

I recommend making an appointment with the Nissan dealer and requesting a loaner car until the problem is fixed to your satisfaction. When they call to tell you your car is all set, request to drive it with the service manager or mechanic to verify it’s fixed. If you still don’t get the results you want, call Nissan customer relations, the number is in the owners manual, and request a rep look at your car. Just remember Sandie, the squeaky wheel gets the oil, so keep squeaking :) Let me know what happens or if you have any other questions, I’d be glad to help :)

What did the old rotors look like when you removed them? Was there a lot of heavy rust on them? Sometimes rusted rotors have a tendency to leave rust spots on the hub, the rust gets stuck between the new rotors and old hub causing a brake pulsation and sometimes a steering wheel vibration accompanied by a brake pulsation.

Check the car for vibrations that are present but do not send vibrations through the steering wheel. Putting the transmission in neutral, leave the door open, and rev.

If the steering wheel vibration happens at low speed, it's a tire or wheel problem.
Low-speed wobbles or vibrations are almost always caused by this.

Hey! I love the article. I have a vibration in my Mercury Sable LS 2002. When I drive to a high speed of about 60 mph, the car begins to shake a lot, along with the steering wheel. I had to exit the freeway and take the local streets. It was nearly impossible to drive at that speed. I recently got a flat tire in the front driver side. Used a fix a flat tire can. I then brought it back to the repairman to have it checked. He checked the tires and everything else you mentioned on the site. He couldn’t find anything wrong and recommended me to go to the dealership. So what do you think it could possibly be?. And what should I do now?. He did mention to me that the mounts to my engine might be weak because when he accelerates, the engine does move up and down quite a bit. But it doesn’t make sense to me. He did check the tires, rim, alignment, suspension, bushing, bearing, all the major parts around the wheel area and did the balance on the tires. Any ideas?. The service of dealership is closed Sunday so I’ll be bringing it in tomorrow. I just hope they don’t charge me anything to have it checked. Hopefully it is something that was recalled. Lol. Not my luck, anyways thanks a lot. I’ll update tomorrow.

Your car shakes while driving down the highway, the steering wheel vibration is driving you crazy, and without even realizing it, it’s causing you to feel tired. It can be quite exhausting holding onto a steering wheel that is violently shaking or even shaking just a little. You need an alignment on your car, right? Wrong! I hear this from customers all the time; they pull into the garage and say “I need to have an alignment on my car because my steering wheel is shaking while driving on the highway. “

Just updating you on my previous posts (wobble at highway speeds, brought in twice, still doesn’t seem fixed. ). I still notice that is wobbles and this is after bringing in to the same guys two times (1st time – wheel weights fell off, 2nd time – he said wheel weights fell off AND put on the wrong weights). Brake noise still making noise after taking it in and the ‘ambient temperature’ excuse.

Hey Michael, welcome back :) No your shocks will not cause a vibration, but if they are worn bad, your car will skip across the road when you hit a large bump or bridge expansion joint. Drive it for a while and enjoy the ride, and remember, it’s very rare to have tires perfectly balanced, so don’t tune into the vibrations too much, try to tune them out, lol. Thanks for the feedback Michael, I really appreciate it :)

If your car is shaking, whether it’s the steering wheel or something deeper, this
checklist can help you figure out what’s causing it and how serious a problem it is
s
.

I have a 97 Ponitac Bonneville and I have major shaking in my steering wheel. I’ve had a balance & rotation done, it did not help. I took my car in to get an alignment an found it didn’t need one. The guy there told me it could be a bad belt in my tire, but didn’t mention how I could get this diagnose?? This all started when I hit more then one curb, would that cause a belt in the tire to go bad? also i noticed that i have a bulge in my tire. would hitting the curb cause this? thanks for any help you can give me.

I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 5-speed. I purchased it with 81,000 miles. I had bought it from someone who might not have taken care if it very well, it was lowered and had tints. The car’s ride was rough with the lowering, so I decided to fix that. I had both axles, as well as my springs replaced to stock. After that, I noticed some shaky driving when hitting speeds of 40mph-60mph. After reading up on the problem, I found that alignment/balancing was the culprit. I brought it to Town Fair Tire, they aligned it and it was fine. for a WEEK. Then it was shaky again. I brought it back 2 more occasions for Alignment and it was PERFECTLY aligned, they said. They said the vibration could be caused because the car was lowered previously and the tires were worn incorrectly. So I had all 4 tires replaced. SAME PROBLEM continued! At my wits end, I went back to get it checked out and I pull into the parking lot and BAM! my car starts lugging around. They look at it and see my car was misfiring badly, disregarding the steering wheel shake at that point. I brought it to a mechanic who found that all 4 of my spark plugs were misfiring, my gasket was leaking oil into one of the plugs, etc. I had those all fixed and the tune up done. My check engine light was previously on, now it was off. Later that day on my way home from work, BAM! It’s back on! I go back to the mechanic and he runs it on the tester and finds out it’s my catalytic converter! GREAT! Another 0 to fix that! So as it is now, I haven’t replaced the cat yet. Nearly 00 later, I’m back where I started with the vibration issue. One thing I did notice, my CV joints still ‘tick’ when turning at times. The axles were replaced with BRAND NEW axles, not re-manned.

Cars are supposed to run smooth & stable on a flat road, at any speed. It’s only when they DON’T drive smoothly, that the owner starts worryingng.

Hi Eddie, I’ve found your site, read through for possible answers for my daughter’s car. HELP. It’s ’99 Suzuki g. Vitara. She ‘blew’ a tire. Went to local tire place, had to replace not 1 but 2 new tires. I was told co no longer made that tread model (fine), soooo 2 new tires on rear, balanced, aligned, & told rim of blown tire ‘ok”. So my daughter tells me her steering wheel is shaking while driving on the highway! So here we are less than 24 hours after repairs, and her car never did this prior to the work. What now? Excellent site, my best, Fustrated Mom

Sure, no problem, glad I could help. With your car being hit on that side, it’s a sure sign it could be a wheel bearing, especially if the wheel was hit. If the wheel was hit, it would put excessive pressure on the wheel bearing, and could cause damage. Thanks for coming back Larry, I’ll wait to hear from you, take care for now.

I’m doing very well, thanks for asking :) I recommend returning to the garage for a third time and have the mechanic go for a ride with you, I know it sucks having to return to the garage a third time but it’s the best solution. Once the mechanic says he fixed it a third time, tell him you would like to road test it with him again just to verify the vibration is gone. This will ensure you wont have to return for a forth time.

Hello Eddie. Just wanted to update you. I had the car at the dealership TWO different days this week. They tried blaming the wheel hubs I replaced, so I swapped them back to the factory parts, no change. They tried an EVA vibration test, it said two front tires were the problem (YEAH RIGHT). Then they tried putting the wheels and tires off of their own uplander service shuttle onto mine, still no change. I drove it with their wheels and tires to verify that yes, the problem was still there, because they were sure that would fix it. NOPE. Don’t know if I mentioned the vehicle rocks back and forth while sitting still, but they claimed they couldn’t feel this either! So, finally after driving with their wheels on, I parked it, and the vibration back and forth was terrible, so I grabbed the service manager and made him sit in it and he finally felt that vibration. Next we drove it and he noted it IS INDEED vibrating like the dickens while driving. The transmission is now clunking when you accelerate and let off really bad, and the vibration is worse. They’ve been romping it to death trying to verify motor mount integrity by hitting the gas in gear while holding the brakes, etc. and it’s gotten WORSE!! Their solution? They have no idea what’s wrong, and are contacting GM. They may end up replacing my entire transmission with on 39,000 miles on it! I know the vibration is in the drive train somewhere, but supposedly the motor mounts are good. How else could it shake you back and forth while sitting still with good motor mounts? I will update as I find out more, the battle wages on.

It sounds like you may have a sticking caliper. A caliper can start to freeze up for one reason or another, and as the caliper heats up, it expands and causes the brake pads to squeeze the rotor. I would have the calipers checked after a hard road test, like after exiting from the highway a few times.

It is without doubt that brake pads and brake rotors have to be fitted properly, especially brake rotors and that all the standard precautions such as clean and preparing the wheel hubs done,checking for hub run out and tightening the wheel nuts or lug nuts sequentially and finishing them with a torque gun but in some cases when all this is done perfectly vibration appears after 2000-4000 miles. This is a clear indicator that integral run out of the vehicle is the culprit.

Don’t assume right off that if you have a vibration at idle, your engine mounts are bad. New engine mounts bolted up to a poorly running engine means you still have a vibration; it’s just muffled by good engine mounts. Start with engine performance and perform any necessary repairs. After you’ve done that if you still have a vibration at idle, then look to the engine mounts.

Hey their Eddie, I’m having a problem with my car. It’s a 2008 Toyota Matrix, that has just over 50,000 miles on it. It’s my wife’s main driver. A week or so ago I decided to go ahead and change the brakes on her front end since her stopping ability was starting to decrease and having to push further on the peddle.

You brought your car in for an alignment and they didn’t even set your tire pressure? That is the first step to and alignment! You also had your tires rotated and balanced but they didn’t set the tire pressure either??? How in the world can low tire pressure get by two mechanics??? They need to find a new career!!!

If you’re struggling to keep the car on the road, there is definitely a problem. I recommend taking it back to the dealer and test driving with the service manager, if you don’t get anywhere with the service manager, call Nissan’s customer relations # located in the owners manual, you should definitely get some result then.

Hi Karen, If you had your tires rotated without balancing them, most likely that is what caused your vibration. It’s not uncommon for mechanics to rotate without balancing, for some reason customers have a difficult time understanding why we recommend a balance at the same time as rotation, this is the reason. I personally refuse to rotate tires without a balance unless the customer absolutely insist. It’s cost is minimum and extends the life of your tires. Go back and have them balanced and could you please let me know what happens, I would really appreciate it:)

Hi Eddie, I have a loud knocking noise in back wheel, the car is not pulling but this slowing appearered after last tyre change/balance/rotation, I took the wheel cover off to discover the nuts were on the wrong way ( the tapered edge facing out) but it’s been 2 months since the mechanic visit, and I don’t understand why my tyre hasn’t fallen off!!!

The last time I took the vehicle to the local dealership (I just moved and tried a garage closer to the my place) they removed machined and balanced the two front tires and rotated them to the rear of the car. They also did the “multi-point inspection” signing off that everything was good. brake pads/tire wear excellent (no issues according to the paperwork)/air pressure all set to the recommended 32psi.

Thanks eddie. Apart from appying slight breaks while going down the hill, my cars vibrates alot at 110km-hr which worsenS when i release the accelerator pedal and becomes slightly smoother when i accelerate. something else also is that when drive in “D’ the cars vibrates alot however when i use D3 the drive gets better.

Hi Eddie! I am here with a Update on the left side axle seal leak previously posted and explained here. My mechanic could move the old axle quite a bit. Then he pop’ed in the new axle and it did move hardly at all. Perfect fit. He was surprised by how perfect the new axle fit and didn’t move compaired to the old axle. Also the axle seal itself is nice and tight compaired to the old axle. Guess what it doesn’t leak any more! I think my prayers were heard! It has a nice smooth ride and feel. I still have, just a slight bit of a vibration in the steering wheel ever so slightly; like someone is tugging the wheel left and right (pulsing) ever so slightly. So I will take it in to get it balanced with weights to the inside and update you here. Your diagnosis and help is truly priceless! ==Thanks again Eddie! * 91Honda-slave-civic-DX-5spManual *

I have a 98 Tahoe 2wd, 150k miles with steering wheel shake from 60-70mph, under power and coasting in the wheel and the seat, more in the wheel. Swapped 2 sets of tires, have had road force balancing, factory wheels. Replaced wheel bearing r/frt per shop suggestion, no help. Can the rotors be out of balance or a driveshaft issue be doing it? Just purchased, no history. Should I get an on the vehicle balance?

I got a question! I just got an alignment done on a 1997 mercury villager. Before the alignment was done, it wasn’t shaking. I also just replaced a tie rod on the right front tire. After i hit about 30mph, it starts shaking and gets really bad at 50mph and above. what exactly can be the problem? plz help!!

I don’t know for sure what the problem is, but if I were to guess, I would say it probably some kind of restriction in the hydraulic part of the steering system and it’s very noticeable when the fluid is extremely cold because it thick, once it warms up a little, it starts to get thin and the problem goes away.

I started a new site,it only has a few articles so far but it’s growing slowly, I wrote another article about car shakes and I talk about the Hunter machine, not that you need to read it, but if you know someone who has a similar problem you could send them the link :) anyways it at http://www. simple-car-answers. com/Car-Shakes. html

Own a car long enough and there’s a good chance you’ll develop auto problems of some nature. And one of the most common and most bothersome problems is vibration. What’s more, it often creeps up on you gradually and subtly — until one day you find yourself wondering how you ever put up with such an annoyance.

That’s great Julie, I’m glad you got that squared away. There is a manufacturer who makes a valve stem caps for your tires that monitor the tire pressure, it’s green when the tire pressure is OK, and red when their getting low, just an FYI. Thanks for the feed back, and if you ever need a question answered, you know where to find me :)

I don’t know if you can help as this is a little different to what others are asking. I have a 2001 mazda bravo trayback ute which I have put a slide on camper on to go on holiday. Before I put the slideon camper on the back it was a bit of a rough ride and there was a very slight rock back and forwards when I hit bumps. Since putting the camper on the rocking is much more pronounced. I have put on new shockies and if anything the rock back and forwards is even more noticable. My mechanic isn’t really sure what is causing it and has asked asked around and been told that I might get a cracked or warped chassis from this. The slide on weighs about 500kg.

Hello again Salim, having 18″ aftermarket wheels might be the biggest problem, the size difference is minimal, the tire is 10mm wider and shouldn’t cause a vibration. Some aftermarket wheels come with a plastic centering ring that sits on the hub to center the wheel onto the hub, if your wheels are suppose to have them and they are missing, it will cause a bad vibration because your rims are not centered on the hubs.

When a mechanic recommends work on your vehicle, ask them to show you what’s wrong, ask them questions and push them for answers. I have brought hundreds of customers out to their vehicles just to show them what is wrong while it’s up on the lift, that’s how I earn their trust and you should do the same to your mechanics.

I live in Mass and we just had a few inches fall yesterday. My 2000 accord was stuck this morning. As I was shifting from drive to reverse I noticed my car would shake when I hit the gas. Both wheels were on ice but I noticed it was coming from the right wheel. I was able to get the car out, and a few minutes later I got on the high way and when I went over 60 mph the car was shacking bad, including my steering wheel. Any ideas?

Low tire pressure is another common cause of steering wheel vibration or car shake. Having low tire pressure can cause a number of problems like; poor fuel mileage, abnormal tire wear, vibrations, blowouts, tire edge wear, chopping, and the list goes on. A quick check of your tire pressures can benefit you in many ways, and could actually save you money in the long run. When the temperatures outside start getting colder or drop below 30 deg, I recommend raising the tire pressures about 3 psi than where you would normally keep them. Cold outside temperatures will cause the tire pressures to drop, so keep an eye on your tire pressures in colder temperatures.

I know not many shops have the machine because it’s expensive and even worst, most mechanics don’t want to spend the time using it properly, they would rather use it as a balancer and not as a tool to diagnose vibrations. Most mechanics don’t want to chase vibrations because there’s no money in it, unless they are a hourly mechanic,and if they’re hourly, they probably don’t have much experience, I know it sounds sad, but it’s true.

Hi I have a Chevrolet cavalier 1997 and just the other day I hit a curb about 55-60 mph about 6 in. Or more tall and when I did this it caused my front left tire to blow out. I put the spare donut on & drove very slow 2 discount tires to get a new tire. There was no weird noises during the drive. But after when I got my actual brand new tire on I relized that my steering wheel is off a lil where just I halfto make it straight I halfto turn it a lil but more to the right to drive straight but the big problem is when I take any left turns there is this LOUD scratching sound that I here coming from the front left tire area. So I pulled over & checked it out and relized that also where the tire is the plastic around it is cracked up real good from when I hit the curb. So my question is what could be causing that LOUD scratching noise everytime I take a left turn. And also when I hit the curb I dented the rim in but I had that replaced along with the new tire I got.

I just bought a car yesterday and the kid i bought it from said it needed something behind the hub.. I’m guessing he meant a wheel bearing but i’m not SURE. whatever it is it is making the LOUDEST scraping noise ever. it almost sounds as loud as the muffler but you can only hear it from the inside of the car. my breaks work find. Do you think its my bearing and if so how much would it cost to buy another on. 2001 grand prix SE. THANKS

Visit HowStuffWorks to learn what it means if your car is vibrating. For front-
wheel drive cars, toasted CV joints mean you’ll be buying new drive axles, toooo.

Learn about the causes of vibrations in your car, as well as some tests you can
perform to diagnose. Wheel Alignment, Loose Suspension Parts, and
Vibrations .

Hello Salim, It’s a good idea to start with the wheels. If you need to check the CV joints, first look at them, notice if there is any split open rubber boots or if there is any grease leaking from the boots near the CV boot bands, if so, you need to replace that axle assembly, if everything is OK then you need to physically check the CV joints. It is quite difficult to tell if a CV joint is worn because you can not apply the torque to the axle with your hands as the car would apply it. It might be best to put the car on a automotive lift and have an experienced mechanic look at it, it might cost a few bucks but it will be worth paying the price for experience. Keep me up to date with what you find, thank you.

I’m back with another update. Got the vehicle back from the dealer claiming it was road force balanced, and my two brand new tires were bad, and one of my other new tires (3-4000 miles max) is also bad. This after three days of having my vehicle, and the FOURTH time they’ve had it. So I took it over to the tire shop. They drove it, put it on the rack, and within five minutes had me come out to see how badly both of my cv axles are wobbling up and down. On my VERY FIRST trip to the dealer, I clearly mentioned that a bad cv joint could cause this. There is no leakage from the boots, but the wobble is severe, and very obvious. Now without seeing it again, they are ordering cv axles to replace them both. How is it possible the tire shop finds this inside of five minutes, and the dealer can’t find it, even WITH my recommendation of bad axles, and having the vehicle four different times? I can no longer help but question their ability to competently service my vehicle. I am still miffed by how they keep blaming the tires, even when the tires are rotated, balanced, new tires are put on, then even their own tires and wheels from their own Uplander are put on and the vibration persists! I am very well aware of how balance can cause issues, but this vibration is not characteristic of wheel balance, and I’d be extremely shocked to find out three out of four brand new tires are bad, the other tires were bad, and their wheels and tires are also bad, when there is no vibration on their vehicle with them. I will update you once the new cv axles are installed, but I must admit, I’m scared to have them install these.

I will be doing that tomorrow. The reason I was asking was because when I had my old car I took it to get aligned ( At a different place) The mechanic told me the same thing that I need to get new tire rods for it because they were bad. So he said he did the alignment and that if I wanted to he would do it for 2 but because I was a new customer he would only charge me 5. And I was going to do it but I was broke at the time so I didn’t. Well as a few days went by my car got really missed up and was making a hissing grinding sound and I was on my way back to the mechanic but couldn’t make it so I stop at a NTB and he looked at my wheels and he said “Are you sure you need tire rods. and I explained what the other guy said and he said “No it just needs an alignment really bad and balance” he lifted the car and should me the tire rods which looked to me as almost new. He did the alignment and balance and my car worked perfect. Do you think this is happing to me again?

That sure sounds like a wheel bearing :) A bearing will usually cost around – but the installation will cost about 1 1/2 – 2 hours of labor, what ever you labor rate is where you are. If you have any other questions, let me know, take care Jess, and let me know what happens cost wise, just curious if I’m close :)

Learn about the causes of vibrations in your car, as well as some tests you can
perform to diagnose. Wheel Alignment, Loose Suspension Parts, and
Vibrations .

I’m hoping you can help me out. My steering wheel is vibrating at high speed (specificly 105km. I took it to a mechanic and he balanced the tires. After that, i noticed it was still shaking. I took it in once again and they did a more indepth look to see what was going on and they couldn’t find anything. I decided to get a second opinon from another shop and they said my tires were out of round. They even brought me out and showed me how the tires were wobbling on the tire balancing machine. So, i went and bought brand new tires get them balanced and put on and it is still vibrating! It’s definately not as bad as before, but still drives me crazy. Any thoughts?

As far as the vibration goes, the alignment has nothing to do with it, it’s either a aftermarket rim problem, a bad tire, low tire pressure, or a poor balance job. If you have aftermarket rims, a lot of times they have hub centering rings that get misplaced, now the rim doesn’t center itself on the hub and causes a vibration, but that is the least of your problems.

Hi Bill, with any hydraulic power steering, there is a pump. When you hold the steering wheel to full lock, left or right, it causes excessive pressure in the system, you will notice the pump makes a louder noise than normal. I’m not sure if the noise you’re hearing is the pump or the belt slipping.

Hey Okotoks, OK, first I would check to see if the wheels are tight, a 25 mph vibration is unusual. If the wheels are tight, you may have a bent rim, so check your rims for large dents on the inside and outer bead. If that’s OK, it’s possible that you may have some corrosion or rust built up between the rims and hub/rotors, this would cause an uneven torque on the wheels and a wobble in the wheels. If that looks ok, you have something bent in the suspension. Let me know what you find, Okotoks, I’m very curious, thanks.

Rotors are usually made of metal and function at a specific width, depending on the make and model of your vehicle. When you apply the brakes, the rotors are exposed to intense heat that must be dissipated evenly across its surface for a smooth stop. However, rotors tend to wear down over time [source: FamilyCar]. As this happens, the metal may become thinned out or warped in certain spots. When the brake pads grip the rotor at high speeds, these imperfections cause a rumbling in the brake pedal that’s then transmitted to the steering wheel.

You might want to check your inner CV joints for wear, the problems you’re having leads me to believe there is some slop in your drive-train, like a transmission carrier bearing or inner CV joint. I have never heard of an ARK II 2004, (Toyota Mark II???) I Goggled it and nothing came up, unless it was a typo? So I’m not really sure what your drivin. Check out those two items and let me know what happens. Take care

The tire that took 3 ounces needs to go if you want to fix the vibration. I don’t know if I wound use a car rental shop to do any work on my car because car rental shops hire cheap labor with no experience. I would definitely change at least 2 tires at a professional tire store with an experienced mechanic, also, the pull has been persistent, so I recommend a 4 wheel alignment as well. Let me know what you decide to do, or when you resolve this issue, I’m curious to know what happens, thanks.

I just purchased a used 2003 Mountaineer and the steering wheel vibrates a little:/ I also noticed that when I turn the steering wheel completely the car seems to stop. Is this supposed to happen? the only thing I’m 100% sure is that the SUV needs new tires, would this even help any of my problems? Please help:)

What happens if the axles don’t fix your problem? You have a very unique situation and you need a well seasoned tech to look at it, someone who is very experienced with this type of problem. I have had this problem myself and sometimes the vibration is very hard to diagnose. It really doesn’t matter what shop you bring it to, it’s the mechanic who works on it that makes the difference. Let me know what happens, i’m very curious to know if the axles fix it, thanks NeedHelp for coming back to give me an update, I really appreciate it :)

i had a ?. My car was running fine til this morning. I have a toyota camry 1995 LE V6 and all of a sudden it started to shake. When i drove off it started shaking and vibraating and when i brake it has a real bad vibration. I checked the oil and seen that there wasnt enough so i put in a quart of oil then i drove to see if it stopped the shaking and it didn’t. I dont know anything about cars and i dont know what it is. Please hep me.

Hi Eddie I have a 2004 Nissan Murano and I just replaced both front outer tie rod ends did an alignment, tire rotation and balance. The steering wheel shakes at speeds between 50mph and 70mph. It seams like if I go faster than 75 it almost disappears completely but increases dramatically if I release accelerator at those speeds. Thank You very much for your help.

You are very lucky, sorry to hear about your accident. I’m wondering about the noise you hear, do you think it could be a wheel bearing noise? If you watch the video where I explain what a wheel bearing sounds like, you should have a better understanding on the noise, if you go right to the 2 minute mark on the video I’ll show you the noise on the vehicle http://hubpages. com/t/29bd76

So you never balanced the two front tires, just mounted and balanced two rear tires and did an alignment. The first thing I would do is have the two front tires balanced (don’t know why they didn’t recommend that while your car was there) and see if that fixes the problem, be sure to road test the vehicle with the mechanic before you pay for the job, you don’t want to return for a third time. Let me know what happens Kim, and thanks again :)

Hello Shaker :) I very happy I could assist you. A broken belt inside a tire is an unseen evil, you can’t physically see what’s wrong, so it becomes a guessing game if you don’t have a good mechanic. Thank you very much for updating me on you situation, I was thinking you forgot about me, lol. Take care.

I’m surprised the RoadForce machine didn’t find your problem, usually you get a printout of your tires issue so it can be fixed. Some mechanics are just to lazy to go through the trouble. You can try an on car balance and see if you get results. I personally have never had the opportunity to use one, but if there is a shop in town that has one, it won’t hurt to try it, it’ll just cost a few bucks. Let me know how that works out for you MJensen.

Hi Eddie, I recently had my brake pads and bushes cahanged on my peugeot 206 and since then when i accelerate on the motor-way my driver’s side rear wheel feels like it’s a about to fall off (bouncing). only happens when picking up the pace tho. Checked to make sure all nuts are tightly secured and they are was wonderinng if you had any idea what it may be?

Your car shakes while driving down the highway, the steering wheel vibration is driving you crazy, and without even realizing it, it’s causing you to feel tireded.

If your steering wheel vibrates or your car shakes while driving at highway speed,
I will explain why. You will be surprised to find out what doesn’t cause these .

Hi ayo, let’s see. 150kmh converts to 93. 2mph. If your car vibrates gently at these speeds you should be happy. most tire machines only guarantee a good balance on your tires up to 75mph. If you went to a tire store and told them your problem, they would take your money, balance your tires and tell you to slow down :) I hope this helps, thanks for stopping by and commenting, I really appreciate it.

Butler Tire offers hi-speed on the car wheel balancing for most cars, trucks and SUV's. We eliminate most vibrations by balancing the complete tire and wheel assembly.

I have an 08 Uplander I just replaced the front wheel hub assemblies on both sides and put rotors and pads on the front. After this, I noticed vibration in the front end, that I don’t think was there before. I then had the tires rotated and balanced, with rear tires moved to front. Problem persisted. I replaced the older tires which were now on the front with brand new ones, mounted and balanced. I was told by the dealer I needed new sway bar bushings and sway bar links, replaced those also. Vibration is still there. Seems to start around 40mph and continue to about 70-75 then seems to ease off some. Everything is NEW!! Is it possible one of the hub assemblies is bad? I’d be pretty surprised if it were. The dealer did replace a transmission mount, but that didn’t cure it either. What on earth could it possibly be? The vehicle tracks straight as an arrow, so I am very puzzled. Please help.

I have a 95 toyota truck with 300,something miles on it. My front passenger side tire flew off on the freeway just minutes after getting them rotated, they forgot to tighten my lug nuts; obviously. I’m curious as to what kind of damage could have been done? My tire was recovered at the site. I brought my truck to another mechanic to have it repaired seeing as I don’t feel that safe with the people who rotated the tires in the first place. The other mechanics repaired the wheel hug and replaced the wheel studs, brake rotor, and lug nuts. After getting my truck back it’s not driving the same, the steering wheel vibrates and it now seems to be making a loud waaah noise; not that my truck was ever really quiet but now it’s much louder. I figured the tires most likely need to be balanced and so I brought it back to the mechanics to have them once more thoroughly inspect my truck to make sure it’s safe; which is really important right now because I’m almost 8months pregnant and need to be as safe as possible. They checked out my truck yesterday and assured me it is completely safe and that there is no further damage to my truck due to the accident, just that there’s some things that need to be done to make it run/drive smother due to the age of my vehicle but nothing that makes it unsafe to drive. So the balanced the tires and said the two front tires were extremely out of balance. When I went to pick up my truck yesterday I noticed an obvious big silver nail stuck in one of my tires :P so they’re patching my tire today. Anyways just wanted to tell you a bit of my story. I’m really wondering and wanted to ask you what damage could have occured when my tire flew off going about 55-60mph? And are there certain things I should be telling the mechanics to check or look at?

Ok, so the service guy called me back and told me that they couldn’t find the problem. But he did say it might be somewhere in the front passenger side. He lifted the car up and found that the front passenger tire did bounce sometimes, a little bit. I don’t know why sometimes. Anyways, he suggested that I should start by replacing parts until the problem was fixed. And start with the drive shaft or axle shaft. I couldn’t hear him clearly over the phone at the time because I was busy at work when he called. Then he told me that, if, that doesn’t fix it then to replace the bearings and so forth. But there is still no guarantee that if I replaced the whole front right side would even solve the problem. And when a mechanic tells you to fix a component one at a time till the problem is solved, sounds like they are trying to hustle you or don’t know what is really going on. I did mention to him that my mounts to the engine might be weak because it moves up and down a lot. But he said that it wouldn’t cause the vibration problem. Then he also suggested that I change to 4 new tires because it could be “out of round”. At this point I’m exhausted because no one could find the problem. Is it really that hard to see if anything was bent or weak?. What do you suggest I do?. Get a third opinion?. I don’t want to start spending on unnecessary things that aren’t causing the problem. Thanks for everything, much appreciated.

My name is Elizabeth and I have a 2004 Saturn Vue, SUV. I had no problems with my car until I had to replace the tires last August. I had been told by Firestone. I went to Goodyear and told the manager that I wanted to purchase the same type of tires that was already on the car, which were Bridgestone tires. He told me that he had some tires better than that, which were the Eagles LS 235/60/R16 tires. My tire is a P215/70/16 DuelersHT HT. But since they had been put on my care I have been spending excessive money on gas, I have been have severe suspension problems, the car vibrates noticeably. I notice a much slower driving patern and hard to pick up any speed. My transmission started acting up and eventually went out some months later. I had Firestone to balance and to do a alignment. But, then I had to return so they could reverse the wheel balancing, because the car vibrated badly. I changed the brakes, I had the fuel injector flushed, I changed the air filters, I changed the shocks, they all went out at one time since the vibration and shimming of the tires. I also notice that when I get up to a certain speed my car feels like it is gliding back and forth, therefore I had to stop driving on the freeway. I called Goodyear, and told the manager about the problem ,and he said that the wrong tires had been put on my car, and bring it in and he will change them out and replace them with the 215/70/16 fuel max crossover, I do not know if this tire better than the Bridgestone DuelersHT. I told him that I wanted to stay with the same grade of tire that my care had previously. But he keeps trying to make me take these tires I do not want these. I am also still have problems maintaining an alignment. Please help me figure this out. Lizzie.

Is it a noise you’re hearing or is it a vibration? Could this be a wheel bearing noise? Read this other article I wrote and watch the video, I’ll will show you what a bad wheel bearing sounds like, I do a demo on a vehicle at about the 2min mark if you want to fast forward, http://hubpages. com/t/29bd76 let me know if this is what you hear :)

Cars are supposed to run smooth & stable on a flat road, at any speed. And they generally do. It’s only when they DON’T drive smoothly, that the owner starts worrying. Once you realize that your car is vibrating, what should you do to troubleshoot?

The first diagnostic step is to identify exactly what’s happening. Focus on the driving conditions that accompany the vibration. Does it only occur under certain driving conditions? If so, when? Does it change with vehicle speed? When is the vibration problem most noticeable? Is it a noise (sound only) or vibration, or both? Where does the noise or vibration appear to be coming from? Can you feel it on the steering wheel, brake pedal or seat?

The 5 common culprits that cause your car to vibrate are:

Eddie, Took the PT cruiser in and the mechanic said I had bad tires. Got new tires. Still had Vibration. Went back in and was told it was warped rims. Replaced the rims. Still had vibration. I had CV joints checked. No problems with CV joints. Three different mechanics have now told me that there is nothing further wrong with my car, yet it’s still vibrating on acceleration between 20-25 mphPerhaps it’s all in my head? I’m so frustrated I’m ready to sell the car Lol

The vibration is gone after the steady bearing on the drive shaft was replaced as well as two Universal joints. I understand the steady bearing was completely done, and one of the universal joints was in rough shape. The other universal joint was replaced because they had it off and it did not cost much. I`m not sure why I noticed some difference after balancing and the tie-rod linkage being replaced. It could have been my imagination, or perhaps I had multiple problems at once. Thank you for your feedback. For anyone else with a 2006 Escape, mine is the V6 AWD and it had roughly 130,000 miles. Anyone in Calgary area, should check out Pat`s Driveline. Very good service, and they fixed it right the first time. Around 0 of parts, and 2 hours of labor.

Ball joints don’t usually cause a vibration, but I have seen tie rod ends cause vibrations. The best way to check the ball joint is to jack up the car from the control arm and check the ball joint for play by either using a pry bar between the control arm and joint or under the tire and lift up, if your joint is as bad as you think, you should feel or see play in the joint. While your wheel is in the air, grab the tire at 9 & 3 o’clock and shake it to see if there is any play in the tie rod end.

First I want you to go to another article I wrote on wheel bearings, and I would like you to watch the video I made, let me know if this sounds like your noise. You can watch the whole video or skip to the part where I actually show you the noise on a vehicle, it’s at the 2:50 min mark on the video. Let me know if that is your noise because it sounds like you’re describing and wheel bearing noise. http://eddiecarrara. hubpages. com/hub/What-is-a-whe.

Jun 23, 2013  · Tires often cause car vibration. When tire tread is too low or unevenly distributed on a tire, it can cause a car to vibrate at high and low speedsds.

Hi Eddie! Enjoyed your posts. I have a 91 Civic 5 Speed Manual in very, very good condition. The motor D15B2 runs like a sewing machine. Smooth as silk. It has a steering vibration on the steering wheel only after getting on the highway say around 50MPH till about 70MPH it goes away. Doesn’t vibrate at all in the city driving which I’m happy to report. So my story is the left axle seal was leaking and I had it replaced. It started leaking again and I had it replaced today. Also, I had the original rims all 4 restored to their show room 91 nebulized silver metalic glory. They were gorgious and people noticed it. I had the wheel guys balance them with the weights put ONLY on the inside of the steel rim to avoid chipping the new powder coat off the newly restored rims outside edges were the weights normally went. Then, I put a temporary wheel lock that was large and heavy compared to the other 3 lug nuts so no one would steal my restored rims. Well they could it just slows them down a little. The wheel lock (lugs) were very large compared to the other 3 lug nuts which are quite small on these cars until I could find the perfect size wheel locks (lugs) for it which I did about 3 months later. Putting a wheel lock that was too big and heavy was alarming to me and I drove around for about 3 months before finally getting the small proper Honda wheel locks put on. The steering wheel on highway speeds vibrated sorty badly at 50MPH until I got over to around 70MPH then it went away with the big locks on it. My question is since I’ve replaced the “too large” wheel locks with the “proper small Honda wheel locks” did I damage the axle and transmission because if the left axle seal starts leaking again they suggested replacing the axle itself for around 0. 00 and if it continues to leak after that, they suggested a good transmission shop rebuild the transmission for around 00. 00 since something is causing the left axle seal to leak even after being replaced. Was all this axle leaking caused by the big wheel locks I ran around in for about 3 months and possibly damaged the transmission? Also another thing, since I’m making them put the weights on the inside of the steel rims is it possible that the rims are not “truly balanced” by this method and I actually need to ALLOW them to put the weights on the outside of the rims to get a “truly balanced” tire even though it chips the new powder coat off OR is it possible to get a “truly balanced rim” by only using inside rim weights on the steel rims. It doesn’t vibrate at all around the city which I’m very happy about. Just when I get on the Highway, and approach 50MPH I feel the vibration. Some days it doesn’t do it at all. Kinda comes and goes. I’m afraid my new left axle seal might start leaking and that this was caused by my big temporary wheel locks I ran around in for about 3 months before getting the right small Honda locks (lug nut) put on. I hope I didn’t damage the transmission box and have to have it rebuilt to stop the left axle seal leak. My vibration feels like someone is tugging the wheel left and right in a “pulsing” manner at around 50MPH. It’s not bad, but it is there and noticeable until after 65-70 MPH. Thanks Eddie for your wise counsel and reply regarding these issues with “true balance on using just inside rim weights only” is it possible to get it truly balanced this way and the other issue when someone puts a large wheel lug nut lock) does this damage the front end manual transmission on little 91 civics like mine. I might say can a vibration cause a new axle seal to leak. I wouldn’t know but is this possible on a newly installed axle seal that its caused to leak by the vibration of highway driving or is the transmission worn in some way and truly the culprit? ==Thanks Eddie * 91Honda-slave-civic-DX-5spManual *

Well I picked up the car from the garage, gave it a test drive and all is well now. No more issues with braking. and I will just have to monitor the tire pressure myself for now. There are no nails or anything like that in the tires. and I think I really just need new rims. Maybe one day. or by that time, maybe I will be able to get a new car. Thanks for all your help.

Eddie, I’ve been very frustrated that no one know what was wrong with my xlt ford pick up truck, 2010. When my truck sit in the garage overnight which it was very cold as 30 degree or below, first thing in the morning, I pulled it straight out and turned the wheels. Nothing happened BUT drive forward while turned the wheels, feel the floor and the steering wheel shaking with few seconds. After driving, never happened again. When it was warm overnight, it never happened. HELP, what’s going on!

How about your rims, are they damage in any way? I know you rotated and balanced them and have even swapped tires, but you never changed the rims. Are the rims on your vehicle, factory or aftermarket rims? Aftermarket rims sometimes have a centering ring that mechanics forget to re-install, that could be an issue.

My car is a 2003 GrandAm. I’m the original owner. I got new tires put on in 2009. They are GoodYear Assurance Triple treads. About 6-9 months after the tires went on I started having issues with slow leak of tire pressure. It began only on two tires but evolved to all four. I was advised by my father that they may not have properly prepared the rims (sanding corrosion/sealing). What is done is done. Since then I’ve had the rims machined /sanded and the tires reinstalled/balanced three times.

i have a 2002 nissan altima and when i drive the steering wheel and car shake/jerk back and forth even when barely moving (under 10 mph). i’m new to the area and don’t have a mechanic yet so before i take it to someone i wanted to make sure there was no possibility that a high dollar problem could be causing the shaking/jerking vs. a simple tire and/or balancing issue. can you tell me a worst case scenerio that might be the cause?

You can try resurfacing the rotors, but it common for rotors to rub like that, especially Honda rotors, it’s usually caused by pad impressions, if you look at the rotor closely, you usually can see an outline of the brake pad, the rotor is raised in that outline, and that’s what you hear rubbing. Let me know what happens or if you have any more details you can think of.

my car is pulling to the left, esp. at high speeds,i also am afraid to drive faster then 60mps in fear of the wheel falling off. so, i recently took my 01 durango 4. 7l in to get the front left lower ball joint that was worn out, and front left shock absorber cause it was leaking. they replaced front left lower ball joint and both front shocks. rotated the tires, and balanced them, and had an alignment done. now my suv pulls to the right just slightly. as well as the steering wheel is a bit off center. the repair guys tell me that this is normal cause if i wanted the problem to entirely go away, that i would need 4 new wheels on the 4×4 to actually drive straight. the shop said they did all the repairs but took it to another place to get the wheels rotated,balanced, and alignment. i brought it back to them telling them the situation as well as rode with manager that verified the problem, but gave me that answer, about getting new tires. is this a lie? also, they said i was leaking antifreeze now, which i looked and verified. so they have my vehicle still and will cost me even more money for the leak now, as well as the fact that the car still doesn’t drive straight, and the rocking back and forth when starting from a stop up to about 40mph. thanks for your time Eddie. have a great weekend!

I have a 2008 Acura MDX, about a month and half ago I hit a pretty large rock and blew out my front passenger tire. I had the tire, and wheel replaced, because I bent the rim. Now I have a rythmic hum with I reach speeds of 50mph, and it seems worse when I am making a right hand turn, there’s also a vibration when I apply the brakes at that speed. I’m taking it back into the shop that did all the work, but when I spoke to them they said that I may have a bearing going out. Could I have really messed up more than the wheel when I hit that rock? Should I just wait until the shop can look at it to determin if we need to realign or should I take it into to the dealer right away.

Apology accepted Katie, I know the feeling :) your husband is right, it can’t be the wheels if it vibrates when your stopped. I would have the motor and transmission mounts checked, it’s sounds like one is broken possibly. Let me know if you have any other questions, and let me know what you find. Also, thank you for your kind words, I really appreciate it :)

If your looking to fix a slight vibration, it’s best to find a shop that can balance the wheels on the vehicle. Aftermarket wheels are very difficult to bring into zero balance (no vibration) and if you have the wheels balanced on the vehicle you just might get them to zero balance, the down side is, if you ever remove the wheels for service, you will have to have them balanced again with an on car balancer.

I could keep going here because there are so many possibilities. The best thing for you to do is bring it back to the dealer and tell them you’re still having the same problem, you have replace enough parts, now it’s time for them to step up to the plate and fix it, be nice about it, you’ll get a lot more help by being friendly, let them know you’re not spending another dime, even if they find something bent or broken because you should have been notified about this at earlier visits, and you’re not picking up the car until it’s fixed. Be sure to go on a road test with someone at the dealer (like the service manager) to verify it’s fixed before you accept the car back. The last thing a service manager wants to do is go on a road test with a unsatisfied customer, so he will make sure it’s fixed.

It is very difficult to diagnose an inner CV joint because there is no procedure to test it, you could grab it with your hand and see if you can feel any play in the joint, but again, there is no real test. If the grease was leaking out of the boot or the boot was ripped open at least you would have a clue, but other than that it’s trial and error unfortunately.

Hi Lanosowner, sorry I didn’t see your comment. If it’s a small dent on a steel wheel, I wouldn’t worry about it unless it causes a vibration, I don’t think it will cause a vibration if it’s small. If it were a long large dent, I would recommend getting a new wheel. Let me know what you decide to do Lanosowner, thanks.

Now after changing them we were driving the car on the interstate and we started to feel some pretty good vibrations/shakes coming from the steering wheel. I thought maybe the tires could have been a bit loose so when we got home I got the lug wrench and tightened them a bit more. Still though with out avail, we still have shaking in the steering wheel around 70 mph. It doesn’t happen from what I’ve noticed when you go to brake, only when driving at higher speeds. I’ve been told that the rotor could have been warped when we received them, the lug nuts could be to tight, or the balancing of the tires could be off (we had the tires rotated and balanced 2,000 miles ago).

I recommend having the two tires replaced, and yes, the rotors are usually the cause of the brake pulsation, you can have them resurfaced if there is enough meat on them, or if they’re too thin, just have them replaced. If you replace the rotors, replace the pads too, unless they’re like new. If I can answer any other questions Jamie, let me know, and let me know how you make out, thanks.

Hi ok so I found this website and its great you seem to know a lot! I just had a lot of work done to my car I had to have the Rack and Pinion replaced because about a year ago I hit black Ice and I became close friends with a curb but anyways everything is good now except for when I drive and I hit 50MPH to about 75MPH and my steering wheel shakes pretty crazy. I have a 2008 Honda Accord Sedan would balancing and rotating the tires help?

Hi Eddie. I put Quick-Struts on my Pontiac G5 last yesterday and found i had some vibration starting just over 60mph. I had my tired balanced and rotated today and it actually seems worse now than before. Am I crazy to think they may not have balanced them? What else do you think it could be? I have also replaced my sway bar links and control arm bushings in the past year to fix a popping noise that the struts corrected. I’m clueless since it seemed fine before.

If you have aluminum rims, which I’m sure you do, corrosion builds up in the bead area,(where the tire meets the rim) and will cause a slow leak. The fix is to dismount all tires and sand the corrosion off the rim with light grit sand paper. If this procedure is done, the wheels will be balance again after the tires are mounted and hopefully that will take care of your problem.

Its hard to describe but this is my best shot;The noise is a very low faint hollow sound like “eeerrrrt”. You can say like a faint empty sounding. Its like when you blow mildly into an empty bottle. Its not a grinding noise or a thump. It does come on even when accelerating from a dead stop. It only makes the noise at 3-5mph under moderate accelerating and sometimes even when barely touching the gas. The noise does comes on like for seconds then disappear but at only that speed,not sure if it gets drowned by the traffic noise afterward. It does not make the noise when u thump it in front even when you shake.

as for the leak, i hear ya, cant drive a vehicle without coolant, at least prolonged usage. i just hope for the repair shops sake that they didn’t try to get themselves return business by deliberately doing something to my vehicle. then again, it always seems like once you fix something, something else fails. i think that is law or something.

I had my front and rear brakes replaced 6 months ago and also had the tires checked and was told in good condition. Now 9,000 miles later, both rear tires are bald on the inside. I did not have tires balanced, shouldn’t they have told me to do this to avoid ruining my tires? I did not authorize rotate/balance and guess it is my fault but they also did not emphasize the importance of doing this. I guess we live and learn.

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